CONCISE DIRECTIONS FOR THE GENERAL 
CULTIVATION OF ANNUAL, BIENNIAL, AND 
PERENNIAL FLOWERS. 
Annual flowers are not only among the most beautiful 
ornaments of the summer flower garden, but the ease with 
which they are cultivated, and the long time they remain in 
bloom, give them the highest claim to our attention and care. 
Annuals arc not what they were in former days. The 
skill of the hybridizer in the production of new varieties, and 
the diligence of the enthusiastic florist in the selection of the 
finest plants, have entirely changed the character of many of 
these flowers. What should we do without the grand Pasony- 
flowered Asters, the brilliant double Zinnias, the Targe-flowered 
and rich-coloured Petunias, the Dwarf Nasturtiums, large- 
flowered Sweet Peas, and new annual Delphiniums? These 
give an entirely new feature to our annuals, to be cherished by 
every lover of beautiful flowers. 
Among florists and gardeners, the term “annual ” is given 
to those plants which are sown in the spring, bloom and seed in 
the summer, and soon afterwards perish. A few are included 
among annuals, like the Petunia and Mignonette, because 
they flower the first year; but they are only annual as regards 
treatment.. By cultivators they have been divided into three 
classes — viz., Hardy, Half-hardy , and Tender Annuals — a 
very convenient classification ; and as such we shall treat of 
them here. 
HARDY ANNUALS. 
The cultivation of what are popularly known as hardy 
annuals, all hough simple in a sense, requires a certain amount 
of knowledge to ensure satisfactory results. As a rule the seeds 
are sown much too thickly, and no more space is given to the 
contents of a whole packet than should he reserved for not 
more than half-a-dozen plants. The result is that one practically 
crushes the existence out of its neighbour, and the outcome 
is a poor, weedy specimen instead of a strong bushy plant. 
Many of the common garden flowers are most beautiful when 
given proper room in which to mature, and where they are 
grown under proper conditions a j. leasing effect is obtained 
without much trouble. They do not require any artificial heat 
at any period of their growth, and are capable of enduring any 
ordinary weather from April to November, a frosty morning — 
not unusual in the former month, or even in May — doing them 
no injury if advanced beyond the seed leaf. Many may be 
sown in autumn, and, if kept under protection through the 
winter, make large plants and flower earlier than when the 
sowing is deferred until spring. 
The best soil for annuals, and indeed for most flowering 
plants, whether biennials or perennials, is a light, rich loam, 
neither too sandy nor to stiff. In such they grow readily, and 
attain to great perfection of bloom with but little care. Deep 
and thorough trenching in the autumn, if possible, and the 
application of very old decayed manure or leaf-mould, will give 
the amateur a well-prepared and suitable soil. If the situation 
of the garden is low or damp, first of all it should be well 
drained ; for, in addition to the injury from excessive moisture, 
such soils are cold, and the young plants are injured by early 
frosts, when they would escape damage in one of the opposite 
character. Neither should the situation be too dry, as, in this 
case, the plants would suffer in summer, and present a meagre 
in place of a vigorous bloom. Where the soil is too light, a thin 
layer of clay, if to be had, spread over the surface in the autumn, 
anil dug in (after being pulverised by the winter frosts) in the 
spring, is the best remedy. This, with the use of old manure — 
that which has lain a year or more, and been frequently turned 
over till it becomes thoroughly decayed— will keep the garden 
in good condition. 
TIME FOR SOWING. 
This must depend much upon the season as well as the 
locality. Our springs are so variable that no definite period 
can be named. As a general rule, the proper time to commence 
sowing is about the middle of April, though a few sorts may be 
planted as soon as the ground can be got ready ; and for a 
succession the sowing should be continued until June. 
METHOD OF SOWING. 
This must be varied according to the style of the garden 
and the variety to be sown. Many of the most showy and 
beautiful annuals are very impatient of removal ; and these 
2 37 i 238, & 97 » High Holborn, London.— 1904. 
must be sown where they are to remain and flower. Othei 
annuals may be transplanted, and some of which flower 
the stronger for removal. In small gardens undoubtedly the 
best way is to sow where they are to remain, thinning out the 
superfluous plants ; this gives the least trouble, but in larger 
gardens, or where there are beds of early spring bulbs to be filled, 
the safest and best plan is to sow in well prepared boxes, and, 
when the young plants arc of proper size, to transplant to the 
flower garden. 
Never sow seed when the ground is very wet, particularly 
early in the spring. Select a time when the soil is neither wet 
nor dry. If there are vacant beds, the seeds may be sown in 
rows across the bed ; but if in the border, where there are only 
limited spaces among the perennials or bulbs, they may be 
planted in masses or groups. 
It is a great error to cover the seeds too deeply ; and the 
cause of more than half of the complaints against seedsmen 
comes from inexperience or want of judgment in sowing. No 
rule can be given in this respect ', but, as a general guide, all 
large seeds, such as Sweet Peas, Lupins, &c., may be sown one 
to two inches deep — smaller, less; and for the smallest, just 
a pressing in and covering. If sown too deeply, they are longer 
in germinating, and are liable to decay. Avoid the general 
error of sowing the seeds too thickly, as it causes an elongated 
and feeble growth, which no subsequent thinning will entirely 
remedy. 
If the weather should be warm, or the soil very dry, it will 
be advisable to give a slight watering with a pot with a 
fine rose. It is not often that seeds planted in April need 
watering ; but later in the season they frequently require it. 
Use water of the same temperature as the soil ; or if warmer 
it will do no harm. The watering should be given in the 
afternoon and repeated every few days, as when the seeds 
begin to swell they are more susceptible of injury from drought, 
and the young plants often perish when it is neglected. A good 
plan with very small seeds is to cover them with a sheet of 
paper pegged down, being careful to remove it before the young 
seedlings appear above the surface ; otherwise they will be 
drawn up weakly, and arc likely to be injured by the hot sun or 
a cool night. Seeds vary in their period of germination. Some 
will be above ground in a week, while others require two or 
three weeks. 
As soon as the seedlings have made three or four leaves, 
and are an inch high, they should be thinned out. If they are 
kinds which will bear removal, they may be replanted in vacant 
spaces in the border. No rule can be given for thinning. Tall- 
growing plants with spreading branches will require more room 
than slender-growing dwarf kinds. Stir the spil around the 
plants from time to time, and if they appear crowded, a 
second thinning will be of great benefit to those that remain. 
TRANSPLANTING. 
Presuming that many cultivators will transplant the seed- 
lings into prepared boxes, from whence the plants are to be 
removed to the borders to bloom, it is necessary that the work 
should be carefully performed to ensure success. Transplanting 
should, if possible, always be done in cloudy weather, and 
towards evening. If the soil is dry, the plants will require a light 
watering to settle the earth around the roots. This applies 
more particularly to seedlings transplanted from a bed or pan to 
another position. All large-growing plants should be trans- 
planted singly ; but many of the smaller may be removed in 
patches, without any trouble, if the soil is previously well 
watered. After the plants are established, they will need no 
other care than to tie up the taller-growing sorts to stakes, 10 
prevent the wind and rain from beating them down to the 
ground and injuring the blossoms. 
The flowering period of all annuals may be lengthened by 
keeping the seed-pods picked off when the flowers wither, 
because the production of these takes a great deal of strength 
out of the plant, and, if allowed to develope, its beauty as a 
decoration in the garden ceases. 
HALF-HARDY ANNUALS. 
We have already remarked that half-hardy annuals are 
those that require the aid of artificial heat to assist germination ; 
but it should be understood that this is not absolutely necessary 
if the sowing is deferred until the ground is warm— say the end 
