of May. This is exemplified in the Portulaca, which sows 
itself; but the plants rarely appear above ground till June; and 
those who do not wish the trouble of sowing seed early should 
plant in open ground in May. But to gain time, and ensure an 
early and abundant bloom, it is best to plant early, and assist 
the growth by a gentle artificial heat. Some of the most 
magnificent annuals are embraced in this class, of which the 
Aster and Zinnia are leading examples. The cheapest, most 
convenient, and simplest mode of doing this is the ordinary 
hot-bed of stable manure, which gives a gentle bottom-heat 
quite sufficient for any of this class. 
Presuming that the bed is made and all ready for use, the 
seeds may be sown on the prepared soil, just the same as in the 
open ground, and afterwards transplanted to the borders ; but 
as this is often attended with many failures in inexperienced 
hands, it is the safest to sow the seeds in pots or pans ; if in 
neither of these, in shallow boxes. The soil should consist of a 
uniform compost of light, sandy loam, enriched with some fine 
leaf-mould, avoiding any raw or crude manures, which are 
certain to injure the young plants. Put in a few crocks at the 
bottom of each pot for drainage, and fill to the brim with the 
compost, giving the pot one or two gentle knocks on the bottom 
to settle the earth, which should be within half an inch of the 
rim. Level the surface by gently pressing it with the bottom 
of a pot, or the bottom of a wine-glass. Observe the same rules 
in regard to covering that we have already named. Some kinds 
will need nothing more than a thin sprinkling of earth, just to 
fairly hide the seeds ; and each pot should have the surface 
again gently pressed down. A slight watering with a very fine 
rose will complete the operation of sowing. 
When all the pots are filled and planted, and marked, as 
they should be, with the name of each and date of sowing upon 
a neat label, remove them at once to the hot-bed or frame, and 
place them perfectly level, so that each pot may receive its 
proper proportion of water evenly over the surface. Sometimes 
the level of the bed gets disturbed by the manure rotting. If 
this happens it should be raked over, footed, and re-levelled down. 
1 f there are but a few pots, and a greenhouse is at hand, they may 
have a place on a sunny shelf near the glass, shading them 
during the middle of the day. The temperature should not 
exceed 75 0 , or the seeds will germinate too quickly, and be drawn 
up weakly. As the seedlings appear above ground, give air by 
tilting the sashes at the back. Give water as the pots require it. 
and always at the same temperature as the bed, and be careful 
in the operation not to wash away or destroy the young and 
slender seedlings. During cold nights a mat may be thrown 
over the frame, which will prevent the loss of heat, and 
maintain a more even temperature. As some of the seeds will 
make their appearance before others, those that appear above 
ground should be placed together towards the back of the 
frame, where they can have a greater abundance of air and 
be more freely watered than the others. As the plants 
acquire a proper size, they should be thinned out so as not 
to injure those that remain ; and then, when farther advanced, 
should be transplanted into four-inch pots — one, three, or five 
plants in each, according to the variety— using a compost 
similar to that in which they were sown, replacing the pots in 
the bed, and shading slightly till they are well established and 
able to bear the full sun. Those that are later in vegetating 
should be treated in the same manner, until all are transplanted, 
unless it is such kinds as will not bear removal safely, and must 
be allowed to remain in the pot in which they were sown, thin- 
ning them out so that not more than three to five plants are left. 
By the end of May, the seedlings will be ready for trans- 
ferring to the beds or borders where they are to bloom ; but 
before this is done the plants should be “ hardened off,” as it is 
termed, in order to prepare them for the change. This is 
effected by gradually giving the plants more air, and when the 
weather is favourable, both day and night, removing the sashes 
wholly during the day; or if more convenient, removing them 
to a cold frame, where they can be fully exposed in the daytime, 
and protected at night, if cold, with a covering of mats. Much 
must be left to the judgment of the cultivator and the amount 
of available space, the object being to prevent the plants from 
being injured by a too sudden exposure to the open air. 
Proceed in transplanting as already recommended under that 
head for hardy annuals. 
BIENNIALS AND PERENNIALS. 
Biennial and perennial plants are almost indispensable 
additions to the flower garden, displaying their blossoms both 
early and late, succeeding and even flowering with the spring 
bulbs, and continuing long after the frost has destroyed the 
hardiest Annuals. They are also so easily cultivated, and 
require so little care for their great amount of beauty, that 
they must be ranked as the most showy objects of the flower- 
border. We only need name the Antirrhinum, Calliopsis. 
Oriental Poppy, Columbine, Gaillardia, Larkspur, Phlox, 
Lychnis, &c., as a few among the many imposing and elegant 
groups. 
Biennials are those plants that generally do not flower 
until the second year, and, after blooming, die. These include, 
however, many splendid things, such as the Foxglove and 
Canterbury Bells. Perennials are plants which generally do 
not bloom until the second year, but continue to bloom for 
ears in succession, and may b_- propagated, after once obtained, 
y division of the roots, growing more vigorously and flowering 
better if divided and replanted every three or four years. 
The proper time for sowing the seeds of hardy kinds is in 
April or May, in order to obtain a good strong growth the 
first year ana a greater abundance of flowers the second ; but 
the sowings may be continued with success as late as August, 
after which the plants will not become strong enough to flower 
the following year. Whether the seeds are sown in beds or in the 
border, the young plants should be thinned out, and afterwards 
transplanted, just as we have directed for hardy annuals, only 
giving them more room, and encouraging a vigorous growth by 
hoeing, watering, &c. On the approach of severe frosty 
weather, protect the plants with a light covering of leaves or 
coarse manure, and the succeeding year they will blossom in 
great profusion. 
SELECTION OF ANNUALS AND 
BIENNIALS. 
Miniature Growing. — Calandrinia umbellata, 
ionopsidium, mesembryanthemum, portulaca, sanvitalia, sedum, 
leptosiphon, saponaria. 
Plants under Six Inches.— Clintonia, pulehella, 
cornflower (miniature), limna thus, lobelia, nemophila, phlox 
Drummondi compacta, rock cistus, saponaria, silene compacta, 
sweet alyssum, sweet pea (dwarf), tagetes signata, pumila, 
Virginian stock. 
Plants from Six to Ten Inches.— Ageratum, 
antirrhinum (Little Gem), aster (Dwarf Bouquet), aster (Victoria) 
bartonia aurea, calendula pongei, calliopsis nana, candytuft, 
collinsia bicolor, convolvulus minor, daisy (Swan River), 
dianthus, erysimum, eutoca viscida, eschscholtzia, gilia 
tricolour, Indian pink, jocobaea, larkspur, linaria, linum 
(scarlet), lupinus nanus, malope, marigold (dwarf striped), 
mignonette, nasturtium (Empress of India), oxyura, phacelia, 
rhodanthe, stock (Ten-week), tagetes, viscaria cardinalis, 
whitlavia grandiflora, zinnia. 
Plants from One to Two Feet.— Antirrhinum, 
amaranthus, balsam, bidens atrosanguinea, calendula, calliopsis, 
celosia, chrysanthemum (annual), clarkia elegans, clarkia 
integripetala, cornflower, godetia, gypsophila, paniculata, 
hibiscus, helichrysum, love-in-a-mist, lupinus subcarnosus, 
mimulus, nigella, petunia, pink mallow, poppy, salpiglossis, 
scabious, schizanthus, sweet sultan, zinnia pumila. 
Creepers and Climbers.— Convolvulus major 
thunbergia, variegated hop, mina lobata, canary creeper, 
coboca scandens, tall nasturtium, sweet pea. 
Annuals with Everlasting; Flowers.— Acro- 
clinium, ammobium, helichrysum, helipterum, morna, rhodanthe, 
waitzia, xeranthenium. 
SOILS FOR POTTING PLANTS. 
Equal parts Loam, Peat, Leaf-Mould, and 
Sand. — Adianthum (maidenhair fern), aralia, ardisia, 
asplenium (fern), bouvardia, caladium, canna, clerodedron, 
cuphea, datura, epiphyllum, erythrina, gardenia, gloxinia, 
grevillea, habrothamnus, heliotrope, hoya, impatiens, jasminum, 
Ian tana, lastrea (fern), magnolia, osmunda (fern), passiflora, 
pteris (fern), tacsonia, todea (fern), tradescantia. 
Two parts Loam, one part Leaf-Mould, 
one part Sand. — Agathma, a^ave, aloysia, amaryllis, 
aristolochia, arum, asparagus aspidistra, auricula, begonia, 
bougainvillea, calceolaria, calystegia, campanula, capsicum, 
celosia, cereus, chamaerops (palm), chimonanthus, chrysanthe- 
mum, cineraria, citrus, clematis, clianthus, coboea, coleus, 
coprosma, cycas (palm), cyclamen, dahlia, davallia (harefoot 
fern), echeveria, eucalyptus, fuchsia, funkia, geranium, gossy- 
pum, gynerium, humca, hydrangea, kalanchoe, lavatera, 
mignonette, myrtle, oleander, osmanthus, pancratium, pandanus, 
pelargonium, phosnix (palm), phormium, pilea, poinsettia, 
primula, ricinus, roses, salvia, seaforthia (palm), sedum, smilax, 
solanum, thalictrum, verbena, wigandia. All the common 
annuals will thrive in this compost. 
Two parts Peat, one part 8and.— Aphelexis, 
azalea, boronia, cypripedium, erica (heaths), kalmia, lycopodium, 
platycerium, polygala, rhododendion (greenhouse), sclaginella. 
237, 238, & 97, High Holborn, London. — 1904. 
