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CLI BRANS’ LIST OF FRUIT, 1908 9. 
FORMS OF FRUIT TREES. 
T HE illustrations given on the opposite page represent the different 
forms of fruit trees in general demand. There are various other 
forms of training, such as the Grid-iron, &c.; hut those figured are 
the most popular. The difference in the height of the stems of Fan or 
Horizontal-trained trees will depend upon the height of the wall, house or 
other situation where the trees are required for. The forms in which the 
various classes can be supplied will be found at the beginning of eaGi 
section. 
APPLES. 
The Apple is most at home on a good sound deep loam, but the individ- 
ual sorts vary greatly both as regards soil and climatic conditions. Many 
varieties are very accommodating in these respects, and the introduction 
of the paradise stock, with its short, densely fibrous roots, has enabled 
cultivators to grow with ease and profit many sorts that, on the crab stock, 
with its long relatively straggly roots would, in many localities, have been 
difficult and unremunerative. On the paradise stock, apples make, as a rule, 
comparatively slow growth, but bear good crops while quite young. On 
the crab or free stock, on the other hand, the long roots favour the rapid 
formation of wood, so that an apple tree on the latter is usually much 
larger in size than one of the same age and variety on the paradise stock. 
For a similar reason the paradise is never used for standards. 
When practicable, the land intended for apple trees should be deeply 
worked all over, but where this would be too expensive, a hole 3ft. square 
and 2 to 2jft. deep should be prepared for the reception of each tree, care 
being taken to break up the hard bottom and to prevent any of the bad 
undersoil being brought to the surface, or in contact with the roots. The 
undersoil if bad should either be simply broken up and left at the bottom, 
or preferably, taken out altogether, and replaced by any good sweet loam 
that is not too rich. 
Before planting, any broken, dried up, or injured portions of the root 
should be cut away When planting, even where the entire soil has been 
carefully worked over, it is advisable to make a hole for each tree some- 
what larger than the spread of the roots, then throw back into the hole 
some of the soil, so as to form a mound in the centre about as high as the 
surface of the ground. The tree is then placed on the top of the mound, 
the roots carefully and evenly spread out, and a little soil worked in 
among them by hand before the bulk of the soil is filled in. Care should 
be taken that the uppermost roots be not more than about three inches 
below the surface. The soil around the newly planted tree should then 
be made firm, and if necessary the tree should be staked, a dressing oi 
farmyard manure subsequently applied as a mulch. 
When a tree grows too much to wood and in consequence bears indiffer- 
ently, it should either be lifted and replanted forthwith or else root-pruned. 
This last is usually done by digging a trench round the tree in the Autumn, 
at a distance of to 3ft. or more from the stem, according to the size of 
the tree. In the making of the trench the long roots are cut, the growth 
to wood therefore checked, and fruitfulness induced. The trench may be 
filled in with a good sweet loam ; where nothing better is available the old 
soil may be mixed with a little lime and replaced. When the tree is fairly 
large the trench should be made only a half or a third of the way round 
the tree in a season, as otherwise the check might be too severe. 
Apple trees are very susceptible to the action of bone meal and of blood 
manure. The former may be applied before planting at the rate of }lb. to 
the square yard, and repeated every fourth year ; the latter should be used 
after the trees come into bearing, at the rate of 20Z. to the square yard 
every alternate year in the months of February or March. 
