12 
CLIBRANS’ LIST OF FRUITS, 1909-10. 
Brief Notes on Fruit Culture — contd. 
error of inexperienced growers to try and get fruit as soon as possible. 
This we condemn, if good and lasting results are to be obtained. 
Pyramids should be treated in exactly the same manner as Standards. 
Young vigorous trees, closely pruned ; older trees, being more formed, do- 
not require it too severe. The older the tree, the less pruning. 
CORDON TREES should have the leading branches left as long as 
possible. The reason for shortening is to ensure the buds breaking. If the 
wood is well ripened, rather cut too little than too much, as a point to be 
borne in mind is that fruit spur is wanted to form from buds ; these should 
be as weak as possible, and pruning of course strengthens the growth. 
Some sorts of Pears — for instance, Bon Chretien and Marie Louise — may 
have their shoots left intact ; whilst others, as Cati/lac, Jargonelle , Beurre 
superfin , & c., should have their wood shortened, otherwise half may be 
bare. Some sorts of Plums, and even Apples, have these tendencies. 
ESPALIER-TRAINED TREES should have the leading shoot cut 
back to about a foot to fifteen inches from the top horizontal branches, if 
the necessary buds exist for giving the next pair of branches ; otherwise 
the nearest buds, be they an inch or two either way, higher or lower. The 
branches should be treated in the same manner as for Cordons. 
SUMMER PRUNING. — All the side shoots of Cordons, and shoots 
from the branches of Espaliers, or any trees if necessary, should be over- 
looked after the trees have made say seven or eight leaves of new growth, 
and pinched back to say four buds ; this can be done by the thumb nail. 
After the shoots have made new growths, these should also be treated in 
the same way, but only leaving about two eyes (say six or seven in all on the 
season’s growth). When the season is delayed by being wet, a third pinch- 
ing may be executed with advantage. The result will be, side shoots thin 
and weak, and the leading ones sappy, consequently vigorous and strong. 
In the following Autumn and Winter, prune the side shoots back to 
three buds less on older trees. The reason for so doing is that one of the 
buds will break into growth, generally the extreme, thus leavingtlie lower 
to practically lay dormant, so as to form fruit buds the following year. 
The advice given above deals with Apples, Pears, Plums, and such 
fruit trees grown on what is known as the “ spur” system. On such fruits 
as Apricots, Peaches, Nectarines and Cherries, the previous season’s shoots 
supply the fruit. Therefore the treatment is in getting strong, vigorous 
new shoots, and pruning in the Autumn the_ wood that has borne fruit. 
Any shoots not wanted for nailing, should be pinched back in a similar 
manner as recommended above, which will permit those shoots wanted: 
for fruiting to become better ripened. 
