be less, and if lower, the contrary. This 
room may seem to some too great ; but when 
trees are planted in too confined a space, after 
a few years it is troublesome to keep them 
pruned within bounds: and the cutting they 
must have makes them run to wood, and 
thus to become less fruitful. Fig-trees re- 
quire as much room as tne apricot, or rather 
more ; as they grow freely, and are to extend 
without shortening. Though other trees are 
best planted in October, the fig should not 
be tiil March. 
1 he intermediate spaces between peaches, 
nectarines, and apricots, may have a vine, a 
dwarf cherry, or currant or goosberry tree of 
the early sorts, as tiie smooth green and small 
red, to come in early; and will be improved 
in the beauty, size, and flavour, of their fruit, 
by the advantage of situation. But wher- 
ever grapes can be expected to ripen, there 
| let a young plant, or cutting, be set, though 
the space should be confined; for the vine, 
I freely as it shoots, bears the knife well to 
J keep it within bounds. If the wall is high, 
the cherry or plum maybe half-standards; 
j which being after a while kept above, will be 
1 more out of the way of the principal trees ; 
j though dwarfs may be trained so as not to in- 
j terfere. Some have planted halt-standards of 
the same kind of fruit as the dwarfs: but 
I whichever mode is adopted, let the interme- 
i diate t;ees be pruned away below in good 
i time, in order to accommodate the principals 
freely as they mount and extend. The bet- 
ter way however is, when the wall is toler- 
'] ably covered, to extirpate the intermediate 
trees ; as, when large, they impoverish the 
border, and rob the principals of nutriment. 
) If taken up well in season, and pruned pro- 
I perly, theymay be planted elsewhere. Some- 
I thing merely ornamental may occupy the 
vacancies also, as some double-blossomed 
fruit-tree, passion-tree, roses, & c. or in a fine 
i s.tuation a pomegranate; any of which may 
be removed when their room is wanted. 
Plums, cherries, and pears, mav occupy 
the other walls ; the two former at about fif- 
teen feet, or it may be twenty feet asunder. 
Cherries, except the morella, will not do well 
j in a full north aspect; but any sort of plum 
J (rather a late one) and summer pears, and 
also nut-trees, will, if you chuse to train 
| them. There should always be some cur- 
rants and gooseberries in an east and north 
situation, at the distance of eight feet, where 
I they will be easily matted, when ripe, to come 
in late, as October, November, or perhaps 
| December. Pear-trees of free growth are 
j hardly to be kept within tolerable compass 
on low walls ; but if attempted, should have 
at least thirty feet allowed them. The best 
sorts of winter pears deserve a southerly wall 
to ripen them well, and improve them in size 
and flavour, i he gable end of a house is 
well adapted for a pear-tree, as it affords 
room, which they require. Apples may do 
on a wall (and if any on a good wall, let’it be 
the golden-pippin), yet the practice is seldom 
; adopted. The same may be said of mulber- 
ries, though they come, to bearing much 
sooner against a wall ; but they need not 
have a south aspect, indeed it has been assert- 
: ed that they succeed the best in a north one. 
f or furnishing walls chuse t rees of moderate 
wood, young, well rooted, clean, and healthy. 
When the planting of a garden is finished, 
it will be a good way to have a plan of it 
GARDENING. 
taken, with the name of every peculiar tree 
marked on it in their place, to be assured of 
the sorts when they come to bear. Some 
have the names of the trees painted on boards, 
and placed behind them ; to which if added 
the time of ripening, (fixed late enough) it 
would tend to prevent a premature plucking 
by visitors, &e. 
Here it may be observed, that if any ever- 
green hedges are desired in or about the 
garden, yew, box, alaternus, celastrus, phil- 
lyrea, and pyraeantha, may be kept low, and 
clipped in form, if so desired ; in addition 
to which, if a few roses were intermixed, it 
would have a very pretty effect. A decidu- 
ous hedge for subdivision, or screen, &c. may 
be made of elms or limes, setting the larger 
plants at five feet feet asunder, and a smaller 
one between. Or an ordinary fence, or sub- 
division, may be quickly formed of elder cut- 
tings, stuck m at two feet asunder, which 
may be kept cut within bounds. 
A wide border next the south wall, as was 
said, is best for the trees ; and moreover for 
the many uses that may be made of it for the 
smaller early, or late tender esculents, and a 
few early cauliflowers. For the sake of a 
pleasant warm walk in spring, to have the 
south border narrow may be desirable; but 
on no account let it be less than six feet. 
Take care that this walk is not sunk too 
much ; and that it have a bottom of good 
earth, as deep as where the trees are planted. 
Let the body of gravel be thin, and then the 
roots of the trees will be admitted to run pro- 
perly under the walk, and find wholesome 
nourishment ; where, if they were stopped by 
rubbish, they would be apt to canker, ancl 
irrevocably disease the trees. 
The number and breadth of the walks must 
in a measure be determined by the quantity 
of allotted ground; exceeding in these par- 
ticulars where there is room. But few and 
wide walks are better than many and con- 
tracted. If the garden is small, one good 
walk ail round is sufficient; and if long and 
narrow, the cross walks should not be many ; 
six or eight feet walks are not too wide for a 
moderate-sized garden . 
If the ground is laid out in autumn, defer 
the making of the walks till spring, when the 
earth will be settled. Gravel laid towards 
winter would be disturbed by the frost, and 
the necessary work about the quarters and 
borders. But whenever made, the garden 
ought to be brought to an exact level, or 
slope; then the walks should be stumpt, keep- 
ing the tops of the stumps very level (as 
guides) to the true pitch of the quarters by a 
light line, made of good hemp, that will bear 
pulling tight. Proceed to take the earth out 
of the alleys about eight inches deep, which 
may be thrown towards the middle of the 
quarters, to give them a small convexity, 
which makes them look well. 
Rake the bottom of the walk level, and lay 
the gravel to within two inches of the top of 
the stumps. The gravel will settle a little, 
but the walks should always be about three 
or four inches at their edge, below the quart- 
ers, or tiiese will have a flat, and so a mean 
appearance. 
if edgings are to be made, in order to sepa- 
rate between the earth and gravel, especially 
if of stone, or wood, or box, they should be 
done first, and they will be a good nvle to lay 
the box by. 
SIS 
If you have plenty of gravel, lay it moder- 
ately line; if little, some small stones, or rub- 
bish of any kind, may be laid in first, and 
rammed down level with a broad rammer; 
but do not spare fora little expence, if gravel 
can be had, as a thick coat of fine gravel will 
bear relaying, or turning over, to refresh it 
occasionally in the spring. As the gravel i» 
laid, let the operator neatly rake the larger 
parts down to the bottom, leaving a fine sur- 
face, in a small degree convex, i. e. iust 
barely sufficient to throw off wet; walks that 
lie very high in the middle are unpleasant to 
both eye and feet, and cannot be so well roll- 
ed and kept in order. 
M hen deep walks of gravel are designed, 
for the sake of the mould dug out of the al- 
leys, it should be forborne, and laid thin, if 
any trees are intended to be planted near the 
cage : for if the roots of trees have not a good 
soil to strike into, when they reach the walks, 
they will not prosper. In laying gravel very 
thick it is a good way (o do it at two courses; 
the first of which may be rough, as it comes 
from the pit, yet still raking the larger part ; 
down, and then ramming or treading it; and 
tne last course should be all of screened ma- 
terials. 
It is best to lay a few yards of gravel only 
at a time, before ramming or treading; after 
which it may be necessary to go over it with 
a fine iron rake, tooth and back; and then a 
whole walk being finished, it should be re- 
peatedly pressed with a moderately heavy 
roller ; and again soon after the next rain that 
falls. So will the walks become nicely level 
and firm, in which their excellence consists. 
Grass walks may answer where gravel i.-> 
scarce ; but the latter is so clearly preferable, 
that except for a little variety in large gardens 
where there are many walks, they will' hardly 
be made choice of. r i hey are troublesome 
to keep in order, and if much used are apt to 
get bare, and out of level, especially when 
narrow; they are also frequently clamp to 
the feet. 
Camomile has been used also to form green 
or carpet Walks, planting it in sets about nine 
or ten inches asunder; which naturally spread- 
ing, the runners are fixed by walking on 
them, or rolling. 
Sand may be adopted for walks, and there 
is a binding sort of it that does very well ; but 
la v not any of it too thick, as it is the less firm 
for it. Drift sand is a good substitute for 
gravel. 
Coal-ashes strewed thinly in the allevs are 
better than nothing, as they at least serve ter 
keep the feet dry and clean. If the garden is 
of a strong soil, these ashes, when worn down, 
may be thrown out of the walks, with a little 
of the ^arth, and will prove a good manure 
for the quarters. 
Sea-shells make very good walks. 
All trees designed to be planted are to Ire 
thought of before winter. 'Chose of the wall 
have been spoken of; and as to standards, they 
must have a fair depth of good soil to grow* 
in ; for it should be remembered, that tree- 
roots in a garden are prevented from running 
over the surface, as they do in an undisturbed 
orchard. It is necessary that some caution 
should be used not to dig the ground too 
near and too deep about garden trees, lest 
loosening the roots they thould not be able to- 
stand the wind; and because the nearer the- 
