8 , 1 1 ) 
surface any root grows, the more and choicer 
fruit the tree bears. 
Rut the fewer standard trees in a garden 
the better, as they take up much room, and 
by their shade prevent the proper growth of 
vegetables that are near them; so that it a 
garden is small, there should be no trees ex- 
cept those of the wall. The case is different 
where there is ample room ; and the blossoms 
of frui -trees (apples particularly) are so de- 
lightful, that if they produced nothing for the 
palate, there would be a sufficient induce- 
ment to plant them for ornament; but let 
them be dwarf standards in preference to es- 
paliers. 
Dwarf-standards occasion less trouble to 
keep them in order than espaliers, and are 
generally more productive ; for espalier tiees 
are seldom managed well, and thus appear 
unsightly: at best they are stiff and formal, 
and obstruct the sight in viewing the quarters 
of a garden, which, if in order, are worthy 01 
coming under" the eye; the violence done to 
nature, to keep espaliers in form, is com- 
monly paid by disappointment. A writer of 
repute observes, apples on French paradise 
stocks, planted at eight or nine teet distance, 
pruned and kept in an easy manner, make a 
tine appearance, and produce better fruit, and 
in greater quantities, than when they are in 
espaliers. Dutch paradise stocks however last 
longer, and are altogether superior. 
If espaliers are planted, let them be only 
fruit of the best sorts, and in spacious gardens, 
where they may have a good length and 
height allowed them them to grow freely ; and 
let it be resolved to do the business neatly. 
If they may have nothing better than poles 
or stakes to be trained to, let them at least 
be straight, and of some equality in size as to 
height and thickness, smooth, and not too 
clumsy for the purpose; fix them well in the 
ground, upright, and about nine inches 
asunder; at first only four leet from the 
ground, and raised as the trees ad\ance in 
height. Apples on paradise stocks best suit 
for espaliers in small gardens, and pears on 
quince stocks, as they maintain a small size ; 
but they are apt to decay by the cutting they 
must have, and so do not prove enduring 
trees. 
Espalier trres should rather be trained to 
sawed materials properly trained together, 
smoothed, and painted. But tor a year 01 
two they may be fastened to light stakes, 
when they will have formed a head, to begin 
to train them forbearing in the neat manner 
proposed, that is, to slips of deal joined to 
light oak posts, as trellises. Whether the slips 
are placed perpendicularly, or longitudinally, 
seems indifferent. If the longitudinal mode 
of training is the best approved, strong iron 
wire may be recommended to run through 
the posts instead ot slips of wood, as it shades 
less, and is stronger and neater. ^ It upright 
slips are used, they should be slender, and 
from six to eight inches distance, according 
to the greater or less freedom of the natural 
growth of the tree. The height may be also 
according to the nature of the tree, from live 
to six feet, and it will not answer to have 
them lower. Only a moderate length of tiel- 
lis (on each hand) need be fixed at first, and 
so additions made as the tree extends, l'he 
posts may be about four feet asunder ; the 
first on each hand being two feet, or a yard, 
from the stem of the tree. 
GARDENING. 
Apples should be allowed 24 feet, and 
pears 30 ; except those grafted on paradise 
or quince stocks, for which little more than 
halt this distance may answer. Cherries and 
plums should have about 18 or 20 feet allow- 
ed them. Quinces, medlars, mulberries, 
and filberds, may also be espaiiered. i he 
trees should be planted about a yard from 
the edge, but farther oft is better, it the walks 
lie deep of gravel or poor materials. 
The Breda and Brussels apricots have suc- 
ceeded in espaliers, as also in dwarf and full 
standards; but the general climate of the 
place must be mild, and the situation they 
are planted in must be very sunny and wed 
sheltered. I he fruit from standard apricots 
is very fine, and abundant; but they come 
not to bearing under several (sometimes 10 
or 12) years. 
Currants, gooseberries, and raspberries, do 
well espaiiered, as to a production ol early 
and fine fruit. 
Trees of a more humble nature, and shrubs, 
next occupy attention in furnishing a garden. 
Currants and gooseberries (as bushes) should 
be planted three feet from the edge, and lull 
six feet asunder. Some ol these very useful 
shrubs should grow in every aspect ot the 
garden, in order to have a succession of their 
fruits, as long as may be. Those who choose 
to plant whole quarters of currants and goose- 
berries ought to do it at six feet asunder in 
the rows, and the rows eight feet from one 
another. 
Raspberries may be set in plantations, in 
rows five feet asunder, allowing three feet 
between the plants. 'Iliese shrubs areal- 
ways best by themselves, as otherwise their 
suckers over-run the quarters. Between 
rows of raspberries planted at the above dis- 
tance, coleworts, early cabbages, cauliflowers, 
and lettuces, may be set, or spinach sowed in 
drills ; the raspberries having had their prun- 
ing and dressing early in autumn, lor the 
purpose. Every year a little short manure, 
dug in dose about the roots, (and deeper as 
the plantation gets older) will insure fine 
fruit. Raspberries are not very nice as to 
soil and situation ; but the twice-bearing sort 
should have a dry soil and warm birth to for- 
ward the crops, that the ktst may be in time. 
See that the plants to be set have good brushy 
roots, and two or three eyes to each root 
near the stems, for the next year’s bearing. 
The smooth-wooded, or cane rasp, is to be 
preferred for a principal crop. The large, 
white, or Antwerp, is also good. 
Strawberries may be planted at the edges 
of borders and quarters, either in single or 
double rows (rather the latter) for the conve- 
nience of gathering, and for ornament ; but 
the common and best way is, in four-feet 
beds, with eighteen-inch or two-feet alleys, 
on which beds may be five rows ot tiie wood 
and alpine, four of the scarlet and pine-apple, 
three of the Carolina, and two ot the Chili ; 
setting the plants at the same distance in the 
rows, as the rows are from one another in 
what is called the quincunx order, that is, like 
the five of cards. In a good, cool, loamy soil, 
which suits them best, a little more distance 
may be allowed the first four sorts ; and in 
a quite dry light soil, somewhat less, that 
they may shade one another the better from 
drought. 
The best situation for strawberries is an 
open and sunny one, as thus they bear more, 
and finer-flavoured fruit. Some of the scar- 
lets should be planted under warm walls to 
come early. The woods bear shade as na- 
tural to them, and the alpines do tolerably 
well in it. As lengthening the season of fruit 
is a desirable circumstance, for these three 
sorts (at least) the situation should be va- 
rious. 
The most proper time for planting the 
strawberry is the first moist weather in Sep- 
tember, (or even earlier) that they may be 
established in the ground before winter, and 
they will bear the better the first year. Frost 
is apt to throw up late-planted ones, and in- 
jures, if not destroys them. Those planted 
in spring' often sutler from drought, and bear 
very little the first year, except the alpines. 
Choose forward runners for planting, and let 
them be from beds in lull bearing, that is, of 
two or three years old; for plants from old 
beds are not so fruitful, lake care also they 
come from beds producing fruit good in its 
kind, and true as to sort: much depends on 
this. Press the mould to the roots, give them 
a watering, and again once or twice, if the 
weather proves dry. Some gardeners let 
them run over the beds, which in a dry light 
soil may be proper; but in this case, a greater 
distance should be allowed them at planting. 
If the alpine sort is planted on a warm 
border, 1 8 inches asunder, and suffered to 
spread, the first runners will fruit the same 
year, and sometimes this prolific strawberry 
bears till November, 
Fresh plantations of strawberries should be 
made every fourth year, though in a good 
soil and with good' management they will 
continue longer: so that where they are suf- 
fered to run, the plants being frequently re- 
newed, and old ones removed, beds have 
borne tolerably for ten years. Some gar- 
deners insist that this spreading mode is the 
best way of cultivating the strawberry. In a 
dry season, such full-covered beds have the 
advantage, but in a wet one the fruit is apt 
to rot, though still in such a season it is 
cleaner than from plants growing in an open 
way; but this carries the appearance of neg- 
lected culture. The method of keeping them 
in detached plants produces the largest and 
best-ripened fruit, and on the whole is prefer- 
able ; for which practice there cannot be a 
stronger argument, than that those follow it 
who cultivate the strawberry for sale. 
The watering of strawberries should not 
be neglected, doing it almost daily when in 
fiower, and setting their fruit, if the weather 
proves dry, particularly to those under a 
warm wall ; but this is not to be continued 
when the fruit is nearly ripe, which would 
spoil the flavour, and dispose them to decay. 
Flowering shrubs may be dispersed about, 
and herbaceous perennial flowers ; but plant 
them not too near (he edge, lest they hang 
over the walks. The bulbous sorts' may, 
however, be within six inches, especially 
crocuses and snowdrops. 
Asparagus and artichokes should bethought 
of, but they take up much room, and in small 
gardens may therefore be left out. It will be 
of little use to have less than 50 or 60 feet of 
asparagus beds, as there would be so few 
heads to cut at a time; and artichokes must 
be planted wide, or they will not grow large 
and lieshy, in which their merit consists. 
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