22 
CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER . 
customs, and manners, such as can scarcely be found 
at any other place in Europe. 
There are several churches, chapels, and syna- 
gogues, a couple of excellent hotels, and numbers of 
other houses for refreshment ; shops for the sale of 
Moorish curiosities, Maltese lace and filigree jewel- 
lery, cigars and tobacco. Being a free port, there 
are no custom duties (except on wines and spirits), 
consequently most things are so cheap as to induce 
smugglers to carry on an extensive trade with Spain, 
which persists in continuing to maintain her pro- 
hibitory duties on English goods. I must not omit 
to mention the Garrison Library, nor the kindness 
and cordiality of the military, who invariably, on 
the arrival of a man-of-war, take the earliest oppor- 
tunity of acquainting the officers that during their 
stay in port they are to consider themselves honorary 
members. Many a pleasant hour may be passed in 
this resort, with its thousands of volumes ; for, al- 
though amongst this vast collection there are many 
rare and costly works, especially of ancient Spanish 
literature, all the newest and most important books 
and magazines of the day are being constantly added. 
Add to these late newspapers, periodicals, and daily 
telegrams from England, and some notion may be 
formed of the value of the Garrison Library at 
Gibraltar. It was founded in 1793 by Captain 
Drinkwater, and is one of the finest and most im- 
posing buildings on the Rock. 
