282 
CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGES. 
one of beauty. Everywhere are picturesque scenes ; 
hill and dale, clothed with brilliant vegetation of 
sparkling green. Up the hillside temples tower 
over the more modest houses of the people, and 
pretty pleasure villas peep forth from the flowers 
and verdure of the tea-gardens. 
After leaving this, the aristocratic quarter of the 
city, we went on, passing through streets which-, 
seemed interminable, where shops containing mis- 
cellaneous assortments of goods suited to the wants 
of the population were to be seen. At last, when 
somewhat clear of the crowded thoroughfares, we 
found ourselves traversing pleasant suburban lanes, 
occasionally passing spacious inclosures, at one time 
the homes of powerful princes or daimios, some of 
which are said to have afforded accommodation to as 
many as ten thousand retainers within their walls. 
I was filled with feelings of astonishment and 
delight as we passed through fragrant avenues of 
peach, cherry, and plum trees in full bloom, over 
arched bridges spanning the bright blue river that 
flows through the heart of the city ; getting here 
and there glimpses of the exquisite taste displayed 
in the gardens and cottages along the roadside. No 
model estate in England can produce structures 
in any way comparable with those which adorn 
the suburbs of Yedo. These charming little chalets , 
raising their thatched roofs amid numberless fruit- 
trees and creepers, were usually surrounded by flower- 
