VISIT TO THE GBATEB OF KILAUEA . 
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gradual, so that it is only by the increasing coldness 
of the atmosphere that the elevation is detected, it 
is really a rise of 4000 feet in the thirty miles. The 
half-way house (just a rough grass native shanty) was 
reached in due course, and here a short stay was 
made for rest and refreshment, after which we 
started on again, all being anxious to reach the 
crater before night set in. Continuing our journey, 
the country altering but little in appearance, except 
that, perhaps, the trees appeared of more sombre 
aspect, all at once, on emerging from a dense forest, 
a glare, brighter and redder than from any furnace, 
suddenly brightened up the whole sky. The 
heavens became brilliant, and when the Yolcano 
House (a small hotel) was reached, clouds of red 
vapour, mixed with flame, were curling ceaselessly 
out of a large invisible pit of darkness, and Kilauea 
was in all its fiery glory : we had reached the crater 
of the largest volcano in the world. 
We took up our quarters at the Yolcano Hotel, a 
long building, constructed of grass and bamboo, 
which all thought very comfortable after the long 
and wearying journey. Here a good dinner was 
ordered, and daring its preparation it was cheerful to 
sit round the great wood fire, for the night was 
somewhat cool at this altitude. 
After rest and a refreshing dinner all set off 
to see the sights ; not far to go at first, for the 
mighty crater is situated only a short distance from 
