344 
CRUISE OF H.M.S. CHALLENGER . 
required but little stretch of the imagination to fancy 
oneself in some European capital. 
Nothing here can be seen to tell of its early days, 
or to show it up as the native home of the Aran- 
canian Indian. All is changed ; and it is only when 
reaching the capital, and contemplating the fine 
panorama there presented, that the fact can really be 
realised of our close proximity to the Andes* 
Of public buildings there are several ; those of the 
Exchange and Custom House and Palace of Justice 
being the most extensive and commodious. Banks, 
theatres, masonic halls, and other edifices, are 
scattered over its length and breadth. Tram-cars 
run from one end of the city to the other. It is in 
communication with Europe by submarine cable, and 
the numerous lines of mail-steamers, both via Panama 
and the Straits of Magellan, give great facilities 
to commerce, and increase its importance. Near 
at hand are numerous protective batteries, and on 
the heights are the artillery barracks, &c., from 
which point can be had a fine view over the city 
and its environs, hemmed in by the ocean. The 
roadstead resembles that of Bahia_, and is about 
2J miles wide and 1J mile deep, entirely open 
to the north ; and when strong weather from 
that quarter sets in, there is usually a very heavy 
sea, that occasions much mischief amongst the 
shipping, which are usually moored head and stern 
in pretty regular order, with the double object that 
