August, 1922 
345 
over you will have to pull your head in. 
You’ll forget to do this some time, and 
the resultant blow will make you wish 
you had and may injure you badly. 
When making a tack, that is, changing 
your direction, don’t hold your sail in too 
L — 1 galvanized iron or brass ring, 2j4 
inches inside diameter. 
M — 3 galvanized iron awning pulleys, 
with screw eye attached to carry 
3/16-inch sash cord. 
N — 1 3 - inch brass cleet, with brass 
77“ 
7F~ 
close to the boat. Ease it off a bit, and 
as you gather headway haul it in. This 
will keep you from drifting back quite 
a ways. And last of all and most im- 
portant, don’t make a landing iinth the 
wind. Always land against the wind. 
The reason for this is obvious, and 
[ though the writer has never done it, he 
I once saw a chap who did and he tore 
the stepping out of his canoe and broke 
a thwart and scat, cracked three ribs in 
the canoe and got his hands full of 
splinters when he tried to stop her from 
ramming the dock. 
screws for same. 
O — 25 feet of trotline or strong cotton 
cord, 3/32 inch in diameter. 
P — 1 piece of 3/16-inch sash cord, 30 
feet long. 
T 
, 0 (1 Q 0 
S OME of you who have a knack with 
tools and the tools, will no doubt want 
to make your own outfit. There is no 
need to go into details about the rudder 
or leeboards. The accompanying draw- 
ings will give you an idea of how very 
simple they are in construction. Ash or 
maple are good light woods to use. 
The sail is more complicated and will 
take some ingenuity to make. If you can 
afford it buy this article complete with 
all rigging. I believe the present price 
is $18.00 for a ten-foot sail with mast, 
spars and stepping, and it is well worth it. 
If you have the time and like to make 
things, however, you w'ill enjoy the job 
thoroughly, and w'hen you finish you will 
have indeed accomplished something. 
The following is a complete list of all 
the materials needed : 
— 2 straight-grained curtain poles, sea- 
soned Georgia pine. 10 feet 2 inches 
long and \% inch in diameter. 
B — 1 straight - grained pole, seasoned 
Georgia pine, 10 feet long, 2 inches 
in diameter. 
C — 1 block Georgia pine, 10x8x1 inch. 
D — 1 block Georgia pine, 8x6x2p2 inches. 
E — 1 piece seasoned ash or hickory, 2 
feet, 8x4x1 p 2 inches. 
1"' — 4 Ij/^-inch brass screws. 
G — 2 1-inch brass screw eyes linked to- 
gether. 
H — 4 2-inch brass screws. 
I — 4 354-inch brass screws, 
f — 1 ^-inch brass screw eye (large 
eye). 
K — 1 1-inch brass screw eye (large 
eye). 
/ cre/rs 77^ SA/^ J3 crone y- 
mren 
JET 
KjuAicri/n£ ^ 
J3oca> 7, ?^CACr/yG 0/=* 
Q — 1 piece of 3/16-inch sash cord, 15 
feet long. 
R — 3^ yards “Pequot” sheeting, 7 feet 
wide. 
S — 3 spools No. 40 cotton thread. 
T — 1 3/ 16-inch auger. 
This seems quite a list, and it is, but the 
only things that cost to amount to any- 
thing are""the poles and the sheeting. 
For the sake of brevity I have lettered 
the articles as listed in alphabetical se- 
quence from A to T, inclusive, and will 
refer to them only by these letters. Pro- 
ceed as follows. Use “T” to start all 
screw holes. 
Bore hole through center of “D” 2 
inches in diameter and sandpaper out 
just large enough to fit over end of “B.” 
Bevel edges of “C” on one face and 
screw “D” to “C,” using screws “I” so 
that center of hole through “D” will fall 
over center of “C.” Bevel exposed 
edges of “D” and screw combined block 
“C-D” to bottom of canoe, inside and 
just back of the front seat, and so that 
hole in “D” will come directly over keel 
strip of canoe. Use screws “E” for this. 
(See diagram No. CD.) Shape “E” as 
in diagram E, and through center of 
“E” bore hole same as in “D.” Screw 
from gunnel to gunnel, using screws 
“H,” so that hole in “E” will be directly 
over hole in “D.” You have now finished 
stepping for mast. 
Now take pulleys “M.” Screw one 
Sjtoxons^ /^At-YAnp rrrAcreP To 
CATecf/ yAA/> y TfoYc Tnnv ■ 
on /^ASr, 
at a distance of lp 2 inch from end of 
mast “B.” Step mast “B” by putting 
through holes in “E” and “D,” and screw 
second pulley to mast “B” at a distance 
of 8 inches above where mast passes 
through thwart “E.” Screw remaining 
(Continued on page 369) 
