December, 1922 
545 
not a table of offsets but is especially 
arranged for those who don’t know. Fig. 
9 shows how it is used. 
We draw a centerline near one edge 
of the sheet of cardboard, and measur- 
ing 6 inches, 12 inches, 18 inches and 24 
inches out from the centerline, draw 
lines parallel to it. Near the bottom 
draw a line cutting them all and perpen- 
dicular to them which makes the base- 
line. Now let us draw Frame No. 7. 
Looking at the table we find Frame No. 
7 is 2^/2 inches wide at keel, so we lay 
this off from the centerline along the 
baseline. We find that at six inches out 
it is yi inch high, so we lay this off from 
the baseline along the six-inch parallel. 
At 12 inches out it is 1 5/16 inches high, 
at 18 inches out 3 inches high and at 24 
inches out 6 3/16 inches high, so we lay 
these off on the proper parallels. Then 
we find that it is 30 inches wide at the 
rail, so we lay this out along the base- 
line and from this point we lay out the 
height at rail which the table says is 
1234 inches. We now lay our 34-mch 
square batten on the points and if fair 
draw in the line. Hold the batten either 
with weights or nails. 
This is the shape of the outside of the 
boat at this point and we must allow for 
the plank which is inch thick, so we 
lay off this distance all along the line 
and draw in another curve, remembering 
that the inside of the keel is straight and 
parallel to the baseline. Now our frame 
is to be 134 inches deep, so we lay this 
off and draw it in. In this case we con- 
tinue the curve to the centerline as it is 
not wise to leave a sharp inside corner 
to the frame as it makes a fine place for 
it to break. 
By moving up a few inches and draw- 
ing another baseline there is room to lay 
out another frame and we continue until 
we have patterns for the whole thirteen 
which we can then cut out. The frames 
themselves are cut from ^-inch thick 
oak with as much long grain as possible 
in each one. There should be two of 
each pattern. Number them as soon as 
made so as to not mix them up. 
We next require a floor timber to con- 
nect the two parts of each frame. A pat- 
tern for this can be drawn from the 
frame pattern, reversing it for one side. 
The top is flat and parallel to the base 
and the depth about 234 inches at the 
centre. The longest will be about 40 
inches and the shortest about 8 inches. 
The table in Fig. 8 gives the shape of 
the deck beams and is used in the same 
way. Beams No. 7 to No. 13 are cut 
from the same pattern and vary only in 
width. They are the same dimensions 
as the frames, i. e., y^-inch by 134 
inches. The table gives the shape of one 
side of the beam, but the pattern should 
be drawn so that the entire beam can be 
cut in one piece. 
When all the pieces are cut we are 
ready to put them together. Fig. 10 
shows all the parts of one unit and Fig. 
11 shows them put together. The floor 
is screwed to the two parts of the frames 
and the deck beam fastened to the ends 
of the frames. Before putting in the 
screws lay the parts together and check 
them for width and height. You can 
lay out a baseline and centerline on the 
floor to aid in this work. 
We can now clamp the keel tempo- 
rarily in place and fit the bottom pieces 
of the centerboard casing. These must 
be shaped so as to fit tightly to the keel 
and should be fastened through the keel 
with long screws. A piece of cloth 
soaked in th-ick wet paint laid between 
them and the keel will make the joint 
tight. The posts should also be laid in 
thick paint and the whole outfit well fas- 
tened together. 
While the keel is on the stocks the 
transom and knee can be checked up and 
the forward end cut off to fit the nose 
piece, after which take down the keel 
and fasten all these parts together in 
wet paint. 
N ext the keel can be fastened to the 
stocks with some heavy screws or 
lag screws (don’t forget to plug these 
holes when you take the finished hull off 
the stocks) and we are ready to set up 
the frames. Take No. 7 and set it 
roughly in position with the floor side 
toward the stern. You will note that 
the botom has to be beveled off a bit so 
that the frame can rest on the keel and 
stand plumb. Then try it again. It 
should be square to the centerline of the 
boat and the centerline of frame and 
keel should coincide. Fasten it with two 
screws through the keel into the frames. 
Next it should be leveled up so that the 
rail heights are the same level line. A 
shore or short stick nailed to the frame 
near the rail and to the floor will hold 
this. Fasten the forward frames in the 
same way. The after frames differ in 
that the floor side faces forward. 
The centerboard will interfere with 
one frame which will have to be cut out 
to slip over the case. It is fastened 
through the keel like the others and also 
fastened to the case by corner blocks. 
It will stiffen the skeleton if we screw 
in the stringers outlining the cockpit, 
which are ^4-inch by I 34 inches. Their 
location is shown in the drawings. After 
this we can plank up the hull. 
The planking is 54 inch thick, cypress, 
cedar, or pine. We need two planks 8 
inches wide and 16 feet long. We clamp 
one of these temporarily to the frames 
against the keel. Note that it does not 
touch the keel except at one or two 
points, so set your dividers to the widest 
open space and mark this off on the 
plank at each frame. Then take off the 
plank, run a batten through the marks, 
cut it out and try the fit again. When 
you have a good fit, lay off the plank to 
about five inches wide at Frame No. 7, 
two inches wide forward and three 
inches at the stern. Lay on the batten, 
mark and saw it out. Try the ])lank on 
the other side and if it fits, cut the sec- 
ond like it. Screw to the frames with 
three fastenings in eacli. 
The next plank must be fitted in the 
{Continued on page 554) 
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