592 
FOREST AND STREAM 
November, 1920 
DOCTOR HENSHALL IN ALGERIA 
FROM GRANADA THE CITY OF MATCHLESS BEAUTY, THE FAMOUS AMERICAN 
ANGLER CONTINUES HIS JOURNEY AMID OTHER SCENES OF MOORISH SPLENDOR 
A FTER taking the early morning- 
train at Granada on our way to 
Malaga, we passed under and 
through the peaks and spurs of the 
mountains by a dozen or more tunnels, 
until at last we emerged into the bright 
sunlight, disclosing one of the loveliest 
and most beautiful sub-tropical valleys 
in the whole world. The contrast be- 
tween this charming scene and the ster- 
ile, rocky and treeless hills and slopes 
encountered in our journey from Cadiz 
to Granada was almost as pronounced as 
the difference between night and day. 
The valley seemed a never-ending pan- 
orama of verdure-clad hill and vale, 
clothed with tall date-palms, groves of 
orange, lemon, lime, pomegranite, citron 
and fig trees, while the gentle slopes 
were crowned with olive orchards and 
vineyards. Little brooks and rivulets 
went circling around the sty)rt bends, 
w indering through groves of itiyrtle and 
eglantine, and whispering and gurgling 
in their gladness as they mingled with 
the larger streams. 
These streams were often spanned by 
old stone bridges, while on the banks 
would occasionally be seen the pictur- 
esque ruin of an old Moorish mill, with 
graceful creepers clinging to the gray 
stone walls. Then we would catch a 
glimpse of a crumbling castle on a hill- 
top, with vines running riot over towers 
and turrets. Along the winding roads 
and over the bridges little flocks of goats 
wandered along, cropping the grass or 
nibbling the dog-roses, but without halt- 
ing their pace or lingering along the 
roadside. 
Sleek mules ambled along with tink- 
ling bells, and gay saddlecloths with red 
trappings and tassels, while mounted 
muleteers sat sidewise, attired in short 
jackets and bell-shaped trousers and 
high-peaked sombreros, under which gay 
bandanas were wound about their heads. 
Ever and anon they sang snatches of 
ballads about love or adventure in loud 
and monotonous voices ending in long- 
drawn out cadences. The mules seemed 
to keep step to the rhythm of the melody 
and to wag their long ears in apprecia- 
tion of the sentiment, while the jingling 
of their bells seemed a fitting and pleas- 
ing accompaniment. Groups of women 
were often seen engaged in washing 
clothes at the brookside, or working in 
the vineyards, who were charming even 
in coarse, but gay and well-fitting ap- 
parel, as they gossiped and flirted with 
the passing muleteers. 
The women of Andalusia inherit their 
beautiful dark eyes and raven hair, and 
the men their swarthy complexions, from 
their Moorish ancestry. In this respect 
they are entirely different from the in- 
habitants of northern Spain. In like 
manner the Spanish sailors of some of 
the wrecked vessels of the Spanish Ar- 
mada have left their impress on many 
NINETEENTH PAPER 
of the people of Galway, on the west 
coast of Ireland. They exhibit not only 
the dark hair, black eyes and swarthy 
features of their Spanish forebears, but 
their names also bear witness to the 
same influence, for such patronymics and 
binomialas as Patrick Gomez, Michael 
Diaz or Terrence Gonzales are not un- 
common among the inhabitants of Gal- 
way and vicinity. These Spanish-Irish 
are among the most intelligent and en- 
terprising people of Ireland. Many are 
engaged in the fisheries, and the sturdy, 
hardy fishermen of Galway are noted for 
their honesty and happy natures and 
fearlessness. 
One great charm of Andalusia is that 
being out of the way of general travel 
the people have preserved their native 
customs, manners and costumes, and 
have not been influenced very much by 
those of the outside world. To this for- 
tunate state of affairs they owe much 
of their sunny nature, happiness and 
racial distinction. 
M ALAGA is one of the most impor- 
tant and populous cities of Spain, 
and the chief seaport of Andalusia. 
It is very favorably situated and pos- 
sesses a delightful climate, much like 
that of southern Florida, and is quite a 
favorite resort for invalids afflicted with 
pulmonary troubles. Its population is 
largely composed of foreigners, mostly 
English, many of whom represent Eng- 
lish commercial houses engaged in the 
wine and fruit trade. Considerable ex- 
port trade is also carried on with the 
United States in Malaga with sherry 
wines, grapes, oranges, dates and figs. 
An unexpected but very pleasant fea- 
ture of our sojourn in Malaga was 
Colonel Daniel Boone’s Great American 
Circus, a most remarkable and wonder- 
ful organization. With a company of 
less than half a dozen performers it was 
able to present all of the varied attrac- 
tions of an old-time one-ring circus. The 
four versatile and protean artistes were 
interchangeable as acrobats, equestrians, 
equilibrists, jugglers and clowns, to say 
nothing of their musical abilities with 
either brass or string instruments. 
Very naturally we became acquainted 
with the redoubtable Colonel, and were 
given the entree and freedom of the 
dressing-room, where we helped by add- 
ing our voices to the refrains of the 
clown’s songs, such as “Shoo Fly”, “Villi- 
kins and Dinah”, “Rah da Boob da Ay” 
and others in vogue at that time. We 
also cheered and hurrahed vociferously 
during the finish, wind-up and culmina- 
tion of the female equestrian’s bare- 
back act. In the fifty-foot ring the old 
horse, for it was literally and virtually 
a one-horse circus, galloped around with 
a slow, easy swing, but owing to the 
small ring he seemed to be going at a 
break-neck pace, especially when the 
ring-master, clowns and attendants ran 
rapidly in the opposite direction with 
wild cheers and huzzahs. It was a very 
ingenious ruse and very effective. Pre- 
viously we had helped to hook-up the 
“young man” in stiff and spangled skirts, 
and assisted in adjusting his blonde wig 
and curls and flowing tresses. We also 
had donned clown dominos and masks 
and held the banners and papered hoops 
for the fair equestrienne to leap over and 
through, and felt proud that we were 
enabled to do some service for our dis- 
tinguished countrymen. 
We admired greatly the old horse, and 
he was a handsome animal, in his ver- 
satile repertoire. , He did the high- 
stepping knee-action in the menage act 
of the “fair” equestrienne. He did the 
usual tricks, waltzing and curvetting and 
leaping of hurdles at command of the 
Colonel as ringmaster, and also did many 
stunts that we had witnessed before in 
Bartholomew’s Equine Curriculum. The 
Colonel was certainly an adept at horse 
training. He was also the strong man, 
the man with the iron jaw and equili- 
brist, juggling small objects and cannon 
balls, balancing a peacock feather on his 
nose or a plow on his chin. The several 
performers did all of the usual acts of 
the sawdust arena, such as acrobatic 
posturing, vaulting, somersaulting and 
flip-flapping, the revolving globes, flying 
rings, trapeze, slack wire, etc., and by 
clever changes of costume, mustaches 
and wigs, gave the full repertoire of, 
“20 — count ’em — 20”, performers ! 
On the day we left for Algiers the 
entire aggregation of talent was at the 
P. & 0. steamer to see us off. The 
Colonel and his troupe had really en- 
joyed our brief visit, for it was but sel- 
dom that such an opportunity occurred 
when they could talk of matters con- 
cerning the States. It had been equally 
pleasant for us in recalling reminiscences 
of our boyhood days, back home. 
T HE next day, as we were nearing 
Morocco, we were sitting on deck 
conversing with two English fellow 
passengers, apparently a bridal couple, 
who had been speaking of their pleasant 
stay in Malaga. As we aproached the 
forbidding, sterile and rocky African 
coast, with the Atlas mountains in the 
background, the gentlemen remarked: 
