February, 1921 
FOREST AND STREAM 
63 
W HEN we were about to embark 
for our return to Athens from 
Constantinople, and were being 
rowed to the steamer in a caique, we 
were hailed by an official in another 
boat who shouted “Passe-port, passe- 
port!” But our passports were at the 
bottom of our trunks, we having had no 
use for them except to have them vised 
by the Turkish consul at Athens before 
sailing for Constantinople. As the 
officer came alongside we handed him 
our visiting cards and a couple of five- 
franc pieces which seemed to be satis- 
factory as he accepted them graciously, 
lifted his cap, said “mille merci” and 
departed in search of other game. 
On reaching Athens we found a lot 
of forwarded mail, and among it was 
a deed or some document that was to be 
executed before the American consul by 
Longworth. Going to the consulate we 
found Mr. Moffet, the consul, to whom 
the Judge said: 
“I suppose, Mr. Moffet, that it is nec- 
essary that I be identified?” 
“Oh, no, Judge Longworth, I know 
you very well by sight. I am from New 
Jersey, but my mother resides in Cin- 
cinnati, not far from your home, and I 
have seen you several times when pass- 
ing.” 
The document being properly exe- 
cuted there was a ring at the door bell, 
and a servant announced to Mr. Moffet 
that a man who had called several times 
about his passport desired to see him. 
Mr. Moffet then said: 
“This is somewhat of a coincidence, 
for this man claims to be from Cincin- 
nati, also; he is a German who was 
robbed of his money and passport when 
on his way from Patras to this city.” 
“Let’s have a look at him,” said Long- 
worth. When the man appeared he ad- 
dressed him, saying, “Tell us what you 
know about Cincinnati.” 
“Well,” he replied, “there is a big sus- 
pension bridge across the Ohio river 
from Cincinnati to Covington, Kentuc- 
ky; and the big Music Hall opposite 
Washington Park; and Young’s Beer 
Hall—” 
“That’s enough,” laughed the Judge, 
“you are from Cincinnati all right,” and 
gave him a couple of sovereigns to help 
him along. Then turning to me he said : 
“Now, don’t say that, after all, the 
world’s a small place, for I think I’ve 
heard something like it before.” 
On the next day we left Athens for 
Brindisi, Italy, two or three days’ sail 
across the Adriatic. When our ship 
steamed out of Pirasus harbor it was 
late in the afternoon and the passengers 
were seated at dinnei ; among them we 
noticed Mr. Fred L'tuglass and his 
white wife, but Longworth merely said 
“Civis Africcmus sum.” He was seated 
at the foot of the table, and not at 
its head as on the Egyptian steamer 
between Alexandria and Athens. Every 
one seemed gay and happy, but that 
night a violent storm arose that lasted 
during the entire voyage. The ship, 
being in light ballast, and high out of 
the water, and the sea very choppy and 
breaking over the deck constantly, she 
was bounced at the mercy of wind and 
tide like the proverbial cork. Long- 
worth and I enjoyed our meals alone, as 
all of the other passengers were either 
seasick or confined to their staterooms 
during the voyage, and it required the 
services of the waiters to hold our 
dishes on the table, notwithstanding the 
racks. 
F ROM Brindisi we went at once by 
rail to Naples, the largest and most 
populous city of Italy. It is de- 
lightfully situated on the most beautiful 
bay in the world, while its surroundings 
are unusually attractive and rich in 
scenic beauty. Across the bay lies the 
charming little island Capri with its 
wonderful blue grotto, and on a pro- 
motory jutting out into the sea is peer- 
less Sorrento, “the garden of the 
world,” adding its charms to the tur- 
quoise sea and azure sky, which are pro- 
verbial for cerulean loveliness. The cli- 
mate is simply delightful and restful . 
The encircling hills are crowned with 
castles, palaces and villas embowered in 
lovely gardens and groves of living 
green; among them, St. Elmo. Nuovo 
and Ovo, while not far away is old 
Vesuvius, which was then in a moderate 
stage of eruption. As I awoke, through 
A fossilized dog from Pompeii 
the night, at my hotel, I could see 
through the window the welling up of 
the pent-up fires as they burst forth on 
the still night. 
The- streets of Naples are straight 
and of good width and paved with blocks 
of lava, over which carriages are driven 
at full speed, the drivers cracking their 
long whips to clear the way, for if one 
should be knocked down or run over he 
is immediately arrested and fined for his 
carelessness. The shops are neat and 
their wares attractive. Naples is fa- 
mous for its fine work in cameos, coral, 
lava and tortoise shell jewelry and orna- 
ments. It has several hundred churches 
containing many fine paintings by the 
best artists, old and modern. There 
are many fine public buildings including 
the University and other educational in- 
stitutions, libraries and the National 
Museum and the wonderful Marine 
Aquarium exhibiting the fauna and 
flora of the sea, as sea-anemones, corals, 
sea urchins, crinoids and other inverte- 
brates in something like their original 
habitat, and in their living coloration. 
The National Museum has a wonder- 
ful collection of archaeological treasures, 
most of which were exhumed from 
Pompeii and Herculaneum. The many 
apartments of the Museum are stored 
with priceless relics of ancient art. In 
one apartment is the “secret chamber,” 
containing certain relics from Pompeii, 
to which gentlemen only are admitted; 
no lady can enter the room, nor would 
she want to if she knew its contents. 
Among the many articles recovered 
from the buried cities, the most inter- 
esting to Longworth and me were the 
hunting and fishing implements; the 
fish-hooks, especially, were of good and 
practical shape in shank, bend and barb. 
We were also much interested and im- 
pressed with the surgical and dental in- 
struments, which though rather rude in 
design and finish, were evidently well- 
fitted for their purposes. Many other 
things, which we had imagined to be of 
recent origin, were well represented in 
the collection, showing that there is 
nothing entirely new under the sun. 
P OMPEII and Herculaneum, at the 
foot of Mt. Vesuvius, are the most 
interesting features of the Neapoli- 
tan Riviera, and their history is most 
unique and remarkable. Overwhelmed 
and buried, in 79 A. D., by an avalanche 
of mud, lava and ashes to a depth of 
from seventy to a hundred feet, during 
a violent eruption of Vesuvius, they re- 
mained buried for nearly 2000 years. 
After several tentative and desultatory 
attempts, a final and successful excava- 
tion was made in 1860, by which was 
disclosed to view its well-paved streets, 
forum, temples, theaters, public build- 
ings, many residences and shops, baths 
and fountains. The general effect of 
the exhumed city is not at all disap- 
pointing to one familiar with the history 
of ancient Rome, for both cities were at 
their height of prosperity and import- 
ance when the disaster occurred. 
True, the roofs, doors and windows are 
lacking, but otherwise the fire-resisting 
structures still remain in their original 
state. On the inside walls of some of 
the more pretentious residences or pal- 
aces are still to be seen fine fresco paint- 
ings of various subjects and scenes, 
some of heroic size, the pigments appar- 
ently as fresh as when first laid on. The 
lava blocks of the streets still show 
the deep ruts made hy chariot wheels ) 
from which it is evident that the 
two-wheeled car was as popular then as 
the automobile of the present day, 
though not so great a menace to the 
pedestrians, inasmuch as the sidewalks 
were elevated considerably above the 
street. On some of the walls are to be 
seen the remains of rude announce- 
ments, scratched in red pigment, of poli- 
ticians running for municipal offices; 
and considering the great influence of 
women at that time it is not at all un- 
likely that they enjoyed the privilege of 
franchise and suffrage, if not the right 
to hold office! 
Mt. Vesuvius is circular in shape and 
rises from the plain of Campania to a 
height of about four thousand feet 
above sea level. We engaged a carriage 
and driver for its ascent, and on a 
bright, sunny morning we started from 
our hotel, driving along the bay to Por- 
tici. From that town we drove grad- 
ually upward, passing through vine- 
yards, interspersed with strips of rough 
ground strewn with pieces of broken 
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