166 
FOREST AND 
STREAM 
April, 1921 
A WATER HOIST DEVICE 
A MIGHTY convenient device that 
would come in handy for any 
camp near water would be a 
home made water hoist. In case you 
are camping near a stream, river or 
lake, you could erect this hoisting de- 
vice and save many footsteps in going 
and coming from the supply of water 
with ordinary buckets carried by hand. 
A large spring hole near camp will 
also take this same device. It can be 
made with materials that you can find 
about camp and with the use of but a 
few tools. 
On the sketch at No. 1, the details of 
the water hoisting device are shown. A 
post, K, is driven into the water several 
feet from shore and where the depth is 
four or five feet, at least where the 
water supply is clean and clear. Of 
course you may only want the water 
for purposes other than drinking, and 
go elsewhere for your good drinking 
water. But a great deal of water will 
be needed about camp for various pur- 
poses and this device for hoisting it will 
be found most convenient. 
Extending from the post, K, is a wire 
or rope, X, that reaches to the cottage 
or camp, where it is held by a screw- 
eye, A. The screw-eye may be attached 
to a tree or to the side of the camp. On 
the cable X, a small pulley and pail, W, 
operate. A cord, Y, reaches from a 
windlass, V, to the post, K, for hauling 
in the pail when filled with water. To 
get a bucket of water the windlass is 
allowed to unwind and so the pail runs 
down the cable on its pulley, the bucket 
dips into the water and fills; then. 
E are depending upon the 
friends and admirers of our 
old correspondent Nessmuk to make 
this department worthy of his 
name. No man knew the woods 
better than Nessmuk or wrote of 
them with quainter charm. Many 
of his practical ideas on camping 
and “ going light ” have been 
adopted by the United States 
Army; his canoe has been preserved 
in the Smithsonian Institution; and 
we hope that all good woodsmen 
will contribute to this department 
their Hints and Kinks and trail- 
tested contrivances . — [Editors.] 
winding the handle of the windlass will 
bring the water right to camp. 
At No. 2, on the drawing a detail 
view of the . windlass is shown. The 
drum of the windlass, as at R, can be 
made from a round tree trunk, and 
should be three feet long and six inches 
or more in diameter. It will not matter 
if it is not entirely straight and true; 
however, the best you can find should be 
used. Two supports at the ends of the 
drum, as at D, should hold it convenient 
for turning the handle, H. A base, B, 
will be necessary and this may be the 
floor of the camp porch, a log, or some 
stable affair handy. The details of the 
windlass for winding the cord Y, may be 
readily worked out to suit your particu- 
lar case. 
At No. 3, is given the detail sketch for 
attaching the bucket and pulley. A 
small pulley, P, is placed on the cable, 
X, and the lower ring of the pulley is 
attached by means of a wire to the han- 
dle of the pail or bucket, W. The cord 
that pulls back the bucket of water is 
attached near the base of the pulley, as 
shown at Y, on the sketch. This water 
hoist will work equally well no matter 
how high or low the camp is located 
above water level. The material for the 
supports of the windlass may be posts 
cut near camp or it may be located be- 
tween two trees. 
F. E. Brimmer, New York. 
ELEVATOR FOR STEEP GRADES 
O NE summer I camped on a cliff 
where it was very hard to get the 
supplies up a stiff grade from the 
water's edge. The handy man at camp 
devised a simple elevator that did the 
work for us and he was able to make it 
from material at hand. 
On the drawing at No. 2, is shown a 
complete view of the grade elevator in 
use hauling the loaded car up the grade. 
This is done by means of two pole 
tracks ; one carrying the loaded car, and 
the other a barrel placed on wheels that 
we filled with stones until the weight of 
the stones was a little greater than the 
resistance of the loaded car when it was 
pulled upward. Hence the barrel would 
slide slowly down its track while it 
pulled up the loaded car. 
The car was brought back to the 
lower end of the track by dumping the 
stones from the barrel. There was a 
plentiful supply of rocks at the top for 
weighting down the barrel every time 
we wanted to use it. Of course water 
could be placed in the barrel to make 
the weight for hauling up the load. 
At No. 1, is a sketch that will show 
how the wheels are made and attached 
to the axles. Each wheel for the car- 
riage under both box and barrel, was 
cut from a round stick of wood ten 
inches in diameter, as at R, on No. 1. 
Each wheel was grooved with a knife to 
the shape shown and then wire was 
wound, as at V, about each wheel for 
a half dozen times. This made it im- 
possible for the wheels to split. Each 
axle, A, was a pole three feet long and 
its ends cut down round to take the 
wheels, as at T. The wheels were each 
six inches thick and the pin, P, held 
them from running off the axle. 
At No. 3, an end view of the carriage 
on the track is shown. The wheels, as at 
R, run on a pole track, as at E; the 
poles forming the track being three 
inches or a little less in diameter and 
trimmed of all limbs as well as the bark 
