April, 1921 
FOREST AND STREAM 
167 
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peeled. The axle, X, is two feet long 
between the wheels, leaving the small 
ends where the wheels are attached 
seven and one-half inches each. The 
hole in the center of each wheel should 
be bored with a two inch auger and the 
axles made to work nicely in these. 
The tracks are held together by cross 
ties, H, on No. 2, and No. 3, which are 
three feet long, while the tracks are 
held at thirty inches apart. The ties are 
nailed to the underside of the poles 
forming the rails. Stakes driven into 
the ground and nailed to the ends of the 
ties make the tracks secure. The posts 
are F, on both last drawings. 
The car, D, is made from a dry-goods 
box we obtained from the nearest store 
and was two feet wide, three feet long, 
by one foot high and was a strongly 
made box from inch-thick lumber. An 
axle, as at X, was secured to each end 
of the bottom by means of heavy nails 
driven down through the bottom into the 
wooden axle. 
The barrel, B, was also obtained at 
the store and had only half of its head 
in place. This was likewise attached to 
two axles, similar in every way to those 
under the box. At the upper end of the 
grade and between the tracks we pro- 
vided a pulley, W, about which the cable, 
C, worked. Our camp was located in 
a notch between two mountains, as 
under K, and by means of the elevator 
hoist we raised our supplies up a grade 
that was almost perpendicular. The 
tracks do not need to be secured very 
firmly in place to allow a heavy load to 
be carried over them ; however, it is very 
important to have the rails everywhere 
at just the right distance apart and to, 
have ties placed near enough to ensure 
the rails remaining in place under a 
load. 
The cable, C, was a half inch rope 
the length of the grade plus ten feet, 
which allowed for the knots where tied 
to the carriages and also for one car- 
riage to be completely up but still on 
its own track, while the other was com- 
pletely down the grade. A liberal sup- 
ply of grease was used on the axles so 
that the rather irregular wheels worked 
easily under a heavy load. 
F. E. Brimmer, New York. 
A PRACTICAL CAMP BROILER 
T AKE a piece of number 12 telephone 
wire, 16 or 18 feet long, double it 
letter “S” fashion back and forth 
in lengths of about 14 to 16 inches. This 
makes parallel wires about half an inch 
apart. Now take soft iron stove wire 
and lace these together crosswise. Your 
stove wire should run in parallel strips 
about half an inch apart but at right 
angles with the telephone wire wrapped 
around each one of the ribs. 
The finished result of this work 
is a wire web about 14 inches square, 
the telephone wire ribs running one way 
and the stove lacings running the other, 
so that it resembles somewhat a wire 
screen in squares. Now fasten a stove 
wire bale to each end on your telephone 
wire ribs. This bale should be about 
four feet high, the result of this is a 
double bale four feet high with the 
whole wire structure swung between the 
two bales. The idea of this long bale 
is to allow handling without burning 
your fingers on the wire and enables you 
to hook your broiler on a pole over the 
fire at any height you care to above the 
fire. You can use this broiler to broil 
bacon, fish or meat on and the food will 
not be soaked in grease as it is in a 
frying pan. Trout cooked this way are 
far superior to fried trout; game birds 
are better also if cooked on the broiler. 
When you are ready to pack up you 
can wrap your bales around this stove 
and throw it in your packsack without 
danger of breaking. It will weigh about 
four ounces and is always ready for 
business. 
Ross Merrick, Washington. 
NEW RIG FOR A CREEL 
I BOUGHT a creel with regulation 
harness three years ago and after 
using it for a year, and being 
cramped and uncomfortable, I pulled 
the harness to pieces and made it over. 
Now I have comfort and freedom of 
action. 
I do not run the strap through the 
back of the basket as usual, but have 
sewn brass rings on each end at the 
top of the back of the basket. To the 
one on the left that goes at the back 
when the basket is worn I have sewn 
a short length of strap with a buckle 
at the end. To the ring at the front 
end I sewed a strap of about 6 inches 
long with a buckle on it also. These 
are joined by the piece of webbing that 
goes over the shoulder and which has 
a leather strap at each end. The front 
strap should be about 8 inches long, 
and the back strap about 15-18 long. 
By shortening and lengthening these 
straps the height of the basket can be 
regulated to a nicety. 
In addition there is a separate strap 
that goes round the waist, which is 
buckled to the two brass rings at the 
back of the basket (I have a clip on 
each end of this strap and a buckle in 
the middle, which allows me to make it 
as loose as I wish). This holds the 
basket in to the body. 
(continued on page 190) 
