July, 1921 
FOREST AND STREA 
M 
307 
method, except with film packs, requires 
a large box known as the transferring 
box, which is about twelve by seven by 
six inches. It would be impossible to 
carry that along on a trip. But I have 
figured out a way to dispense entirely 
with that bulky box. 
T HE two photographs illustrating 
this article tell the story. Select a 
dark night for your work; a night 
on which the moon does not shine, if 
possible. Keep away from moonshine 
(no insinuations intended) when devel- 
oping the roll of film. If the moon is 
shining dimly retire to your tent and 
do the work there. No white light, 
even the weakest, must get to the sensi- 
tive film for a fraction of a second. 
The roll of film to be developed is un- 
rolled and the gummed label on the end 
of the film is fastened to the paper 
backing. Then insert the end of the 
paper backing strip into the slot in the 
tank reel, and wind the paper on it 
until the end of the film strip is about 
six inches away. Wind so that the film 
and papers go over the axle of the reel, 
not under, and so that the film side is 
up. When the end of the film is about 
six inches away from the 
axle, slip the wire loops on 
the end of the apron into 
the hooks on the reel. The 
first photograph shows the 
reel just after the apron 
has been attached. Then 
keep on winding, taking 
care to keep the film and 
apron taut. The second 
photograph shows that. 
When the reel is fully 
wound, snap a rubber band 
around it, lower it into the 
solution cup which contains 
the developer, move it up 
and down a few times with 
the hook, and allow it to re- 
main a certain number of 
minutes, depending on the 
departure of the developer. 
That work must be done 
by red light, of course. p- 
There is a ruby lamp made 
which folds up flat and is then the 
size of a post card. This is ideal for 
the camper. Take along a thermometer 
to determine the temperature of the de- 
veloper. Don’t forget that thermom- 
eter, for upon it more than on anything 
else depends the quality of the negatives 
you obtain. 
The entire outfit necessary for de- 
veloping film by the tank method is: 
Solution cup of film tank, including 
apron and reel. 
Folding ruby lamp. 
A few extra candles for lamp. 
A few developer powders. 
One tray. 
About a pound of acid hypo. 
Two film clips. 
A thermometer. 
Very little is needed additional to the 
tray method, and the results are much 
more even. The trays in both cases 
may be dispensed with entirely if you 
care to use some of your cooking uten- 
sils as such; no metal but aluminum 
should be used. And safety pins of rec- 
ognized strength may be purloined from 
other departments for use as film clips. 
A NY book on photography — the lit- 
tle book that came with your 
camera — will tell you the mechan- 
ics of either the tray or tank method 
of development. Be sure that you know 
how to use the method you intend to 
use before starting on the trip. 
After the film is fixed, there is the 
problem of washing. If you are near a 
stream the film can be hung so that it 
dips or hangs into the water. Do not 
. 2 . Winding the reel until all the film is in place 
allow any part of it to touch the stream 
bed, or other objects. A half hour in 
running water will wash the film. 
If there is no running water near 
you, you may fill a bucket with water 
(a smaller vessel will do) and allow the 
film to soak for five minutes each in 
about ten changes of the liquid. Or you 
may wash the film by running it, as 
when developing by the tray method, up 
and down in a trayful of water. While 
the water should be changed about a 
dozen times, this is the only really good 
method when water is scarce. 
The film having been washed, it is 
hung up to dry. When washing a film 
in running water, the film clips must 
be affixed at that time; otherwise affix 
the clips after washing. In the morn- 
ing the whole strip will be dry (pro- 
vided it hasn’t rained). You can then 
examine your negatives and see if you 
are getting good results. 
The appended table is not complete. 
But cut out the page and take it with 
you on your next trip — and use it. 
Note what is wrong with your nega- 
tives, and how to remedy the faults or 
prevent their happening again. The 
completeness of the table, though, is 
enough for any man (especially an 
outer) to use, and will be the means of 
saving your photographs from being 
disappointments. 
If you want good pictures, you must 
know as much about your camera as you 
do about your gun or fishing tackle. 
The question is, after all, whether you 
want pictures of your trip or not. You 
can settle it for yourself. 
A Table of Troubles. 
X f EGATIVE is very thin. 
The image is weak. 
The only parts which 
are at all black are the sky. 
Cause: not enough ex- 
posure. Either too small a 
stop used, or too short a 
shutter speed, or both. Pre- 
ventative: get an exposure 
meter! And use it! An 
exposure meter is your one 
best bet. No remedy. 
Negative exhibits same 
signs as above, except that 
even sky portions are weak 
and thin. 
Cause: either very exces- 
sive under-exposure, or un- 
der-development. If tray 
method used, probably re- 
moved film too soon. If 
tank method used, same rea- 
son. You must use a thermometer. 
Preventative : leave in developer correct 
time. Remedy: negative may be in- 
tensified. 
Black streaks across films, blocking 
out everthing under them. Streaks may 
be in same position on each negative. 
Cause: a hole in the camera bellows. 
Preventative: find the hole by taking 
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