300 
FROM DUNRORA TO ZEGZEG. 
and more rapid than at Cuttup. In attempting to convey, on a 
small bamboo raft, one of my portmanteaus to the opposite side, 
found it would not bear its weight, and snatched it from the raft 
just in time to save it from sinking. Finding it, therefore, dan- 
gerous to cross, till the river became more shallow, I strenuously 
refused to accede to the wishes of the messengers, who strongly 
urged the necessity of my reaching Zegzeg as quickly as possible ; 
observing, that I would neither risk my property nor person on so 
weak and dangerous a conveyance. They abused me in the most 
insolent terms, and threatened to go immediately and inform their 
king of my refusal to proceed. I desired them to give my best 
respects to his Zegzeg majesty, and told them they were at liberty 
to go as soon as they pleased. They left me in great anger, cursing 
me as they went ; whilst I slowly proceeded with my horses and 
asses to the village we had left in the morning. 
Whether the messengers did or did not go to Zegzeg I cannot 
tell, but they did not return till the lltli July following. I re- 
mained all that time in the village, very ill, with nothing to eat but 
boiled corn, not by any means relishing their roasted dogs. The 
inhabitants, who came by hundreds each day to visit me, were 
destitute of apparel of any kind, but, nevertheless, behaved in a 
modest and becoming manner. The men did not appear to have 
any occupation or employment whatever, and spent their time in 
loitering about the village. The women were generally engaged 
most of the day in manufacturing an oil from a small black seed 
and the guinea nut.s 
July 11th. — The messengers being returned, came to me, and, 
in a very submissive tone, requested me to accompany them, as the 
king did not think it proper to permit me to go any where until I 
had first seen him. Accordingly I loaded my beasts, and followed 
them a second time to the river, but found it still much too deep 
to walk through; and one bamboo raft being too small to bear a 
