io8 
VEGETABLE GARDENING 
lighter sash are easier to handle, while the heavier ones 
sustain less breakage from hard winds. 
Before purchasing sash, inquiry should be made re- 
garding the type of construction. The joints should 
always be leaded before the parts are put together, and 
less moisture will be absorbed in the corners if the tenons 
do not extend through the side-bars. A light iron rod 
across the middle of the bars strengthens the sash and 
prevents spreading. (See Figure 19.) 
A priming coat of paint should be applied before glaz- 
ing. It is always desirable to buy glass of good quality, 
although the cheaper grades are often used for this pur- 
pose. Some gardeners prefer to butt the glass. A lien 
this is done, grooves are cut in the sides of the sash-bars 
in which the glass slides; but unless the ends of the panes 
fit very closely there will be considerable leakage, for 
which reason lapping is more popular. The glass need 
not lap more than % inch. A 3 x 6-foot sash is usually 
made for three runs of 10 x 12-inch glass, requiring 18 
panes for each sash. The glass is fastened by glazing 
points, and the putty or mastica is applied in the angles 
formed by the glass and the sash-bars. A better plan, 
although more tedious, is to lay the glass in putty. After 
glazing, the sash should again be painted, and the work 
repeated every year thereafter. When not in use they 
should be stored in the dry, or stacked. In the latter 
case several of the upper sash should be nailed together 
with vertical strips to prevent the wind from lifting and 
breaking them. If the glazing is done at home and glass 
bought in wholesale lots, the sash can be made in lots 
of 50 or more at a cost not exceeding $3.5° to $4 eacn. 
Double-glass sash are also on the market. These 
possess advantages and also disadvantages. The advan- 
tages are: (1) Plants are afforded almost as thorough 
protection as with single glass covered with rye-straw 
mats, and in many parts of the country double sash 
