CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 
299 
must be carefully guarded against. Free ventilation is 
important. The aim should be to produce a moderate, 
healthy, unchecked growth from seed sowing until the 
plants are established in the open ground. 
As cauliflower plants are more tender than cabbage plants, 
it is customary to sow somewhat later, March I probably 
being early enough for the coldest sections of the North. 
The plants will then be ready for the field early in May, 
after the danger of hard frosts. Many growers prefer to 
transplant when the seedlings are very small, not more 
than an inch high. Planting them 2x2 inches apart does 
not give too much space, but provides free circulation of 
air around the plants, which may be removed from beds 
or flats with plenty of soil or compost, so that growth will not 
be materially checked. An excellent plan is to transplant 
into flower pots, which are then plunged in sand or ashes 
to prevent drying out. 
387. Raising late plants. — Methods relating to the 
growing of late cabbage plants (350) apply equally well 
to late cauliflower, except that more care must be taken. 
As the seed is much more expensive, it should be sown 
more sparingly, so that each seed will produce a good 
plant. Some gardeners prefer to transplant once before 
setting where the crop is to mature. When this is not done 
the transfer should be made before the plants are too 
large and when both soil and atmospheric conditions are 
favorable. 
388. Fertilizing. — The cauliflower requires even greater 
fertility than cabbage. Rotten manure should be used 
in large amounts — 50 tons an acre, if obtainable at rea- 
sonable prices. A ton or more of high-grade fertilizer 
to the acre can also be used to advantage. Lime is re- 
garded as valuable and is used extensively as a preventive 
of club root. 
389. Planting. — The early plants should not be planted 
in the open until after danger of hard frosts. The late 
