CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 
469 
it is important to take the plants as well as the individual 
melons into consideration. It is desirable to discard the 
seeds at the stem and the blossom ends of the melon, 
because they are not so mature nor so well developed. 
The seed is often kept four or five years, so that it is 
unnecessary to grow and save seed annually. 
675. Starting early plants. — Watermelon seed is usu- 
ally planted in the open ground where the crop is to 
mature. In northern districts, however, the plants are 
sometimes started under glass as described for cucum- 
bers (436) and for muskmelons (512). 
676. Soil preparation. — The soil must be well supplied 
with humus, although an excessive amount may cause 
too much vine growth at the sacrifice of fruit. The 
methods of soil preparation are practically the same as 
for muskmelons (513). 
677. Fertilizing. — See notes (514) on fertilizing musk- 
melons. 
678. Planting. — See notes (515) on planting musk- 
melons. Where soil is rather poor, watermelons may be 
planted in hills, 8x8 feet apart ; but the more common 
distance is 10 x 10 feet, while in rich soils the hills are 
often 12 x 12 feet. The seeds are sometimes planted 
in drills as explained for muskmelons (515), but more 
space is allowed between the plants in the row. 
679. Cultivation. — See notes (516) on cultivating 
muskmelons. Always stir the soil about the plants in the 
hills after hard rains, which may incrust the surface. 
680. Harvesting and marketing. — It is exceedingly im- 
portant that every melon be sent to market at the proper 
stage of ripening. If it is underripe, quality will be sac- 
rificed, and if overripe it will not carry well on wagons 
or cars, and the quality will also be inferior. 
Experience counts for more than anything else in en- 
abling one to determine the proper time to pick melons. 
Many people who live in melon districts and have helped 
