THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE, 
72 
roots and commence to grow. At this stage harden them off, and in 
a short time pot them singly in small pots. 
Autumn-struck plants, which have been wintered several in a 
pot, must also be potted off separately as soon as it can be con- 
veniently done. Three-inch pots and a moderately good compost 
should be employed, and it may be said with safety that it is a mis- 
take to use the refuse from the potting bench for bedding plants of 
any kind. They have to remain in small pots for several months, 
and it is impossible to keep them in a healthy state unless they are 
potted in something capable of affording them nourishment. The 
houses and pits in which they are placed must be ventilated when it 
can be done with safety, and in very fine weather the lights may be 
drawn off the pits altogether for a short time in the middle of the 
day. Air-giving must be regulated by the weather, and it is pro- 
bable that we may have some severe frosts during the month, so that 
no specific rules can be laid down. The chief aim of the cultivator 
should be to promote a sturdy growth, and to take every precaution 
to prevent the plants being drawn up weakly. 
Soft-wooded plants, comprising lobelias, petunias, verbenas, helio- 
tropiums, mesembryanthemums, tropmolums, violas, and alyssums 
may now be propagated in quantity, and spring-struck plants are 
preferable to those raised in the autumn. Ageratums may also be 
propagated, but the stock raised now will not come into flower so 
early as the autumn-struck plants. All the above-mentioned subjects 
require exactly the same management, and one set of instructions 
will apply to all of them. In the first place it will be necessary to 
place tlie plants from which it is intended to obtain the supply of 
cuttings in a temperature rather higher than that of the greenhouse, 
to start them into a vigorous growth. It matters not whether they 
are old stock plants in single pots or small plants in cutting pots, 
for all are equally suitable for the purpose indicated. When they 
have made from half-an-inch to one inch of new growth the tops can 
be taken off for cuttings. But before doing this, prepare a sufficient 
number of five-inch pots, by placing a two-inch layer of crocks in 
the bottom, and then, after they have been covered with some rough 
material, fill in to within half-an-inch of the rim of the pot with 
finely sifted soil, containing a liberal proportion of sand. This must 
be pressed firm, and on the surface place sufficient moist silver sand 
(a half-inch layer), and make that also very firm. The sand will 
then require sprinkling with tepid water, and the pots will be ready 
for the reception of the cuttings. The best cuttings are the tops 
of the young shoots taken off below the second joint ; the lower 
pair of leaves must then be removed nearly close to the stem, and 
they may be inserted. This should be done with a neat pointed 
stick, and care taken to insure the cuttings being inserted firm, for 
unless this is done, a very considerable proportion will fail to strike. 
The cutting pots as they are filled must be placed in a structure 
where they can be kept rather close, and also where they will re- 
ceive the assistance of a bottom-heat of about 80°. Nothing can 
possibly surpass a hotbed consisting of equal parts stable manure 
and fresh leaves, upon which a frame has been placed. Of course 
