THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 
303 
any of them refusing; to push up the spikes at the proper time. 
Dumpiness can be safely attributed to the bulbs not being pi’operly 
furnished with roots, and it is a waste of time to put paper caps over 
them with the idea of drawing the spikes up. The fault lies with 
the roots, and if they are all right there will be little or no fear of a 
failure. A most excellent compost may be formed by well mixing 
together mellow turfy loam and well-decayed cow-dung, at the rate 
of two-thirds loam to one of manure. Let the loam be chopped up 
roughly, and mix with the bulk a sixth part of silver or river-sand. 
Use six-inch pots, and let them be well drained by placing a layer 
of crocks in the bottom. Put oue hyacinth bulb and three tulip or 
narcissus bulbs in each pot ; press the soil rather firm in the pots, 
and when they are filled to within an inch of the rim, insert the 
bulbs and fill the soil firmly about them. The neck of the bulb 
should show just above the soil. When they are simply placed on 
the surface with a little loose soil about them, the weight of the 
spike will probably topple them over. The soil should be used in a 
moderately moist condition, and then no watering will be necessary 
until they come from the plunge beds. AVhen all are potted, make 
up a good bed of coal-ashes, through which the worms cannot pene- 
trate, and stand the pots upon it. This done, turn a small pot over 
each bulb, and cover with coal-ashes, spent hops, or cocoa-nut-fibre 
refuse, to the depth of six or eight inches. Here they should remain 
for five or six weeks, and then they may be brought into the forcing 
house as wanted, for the pots will be well filled with roots. The 
young growth must be inured to the light in a gradual manner, and 
the plants kept near the glass. After they are well started into 
growth, water liberally, and let them have a breath of fresh air 
during the warmest part of the day; but it must be admitted with- 
out chilling the tender growth. 
The bulbs must not be left in the plunge bed long enough for 
the foliage to grow long and become blanched. Therefore, when 
the flowers are not wanted until late in the spring, lift them out 
of the plunging material and place them in a cold frame or pit, 
where light and air will have free access to them. Those for early 
flowering must not be exposed to too great a heat, or the flower- 
spikes and foliage wiU be drawn up weak and spindly ; and at all 
times keep as close to the glass as possible, because neat, properly- 
developed foliage that will maintain an erect position without support 
is nearly of as much importance as good spikes of flowers, for there 
is but little pleasure in seeing plants with lanky and broken foliage, 
even if the spikes are of good average quality ; but usually if the 
foliage is drawn the flower spikes also will be drawn, and the plants 
present a most unsatisfactory appearance. 
As these bulbs produce their flowers in March, when grown under 
glass, without the assistance of fire-heat, I would not advise the 
amateur who grows a few dozen bulbs only, to force them at all, 
but when sufficient is potted to maintain a succession, two-thirds 
should be forced and one-third allowed to bloom naturally. If the 
above mentioned proportion is forced, they should be introduced into 
the forcing-pit in two batches. 
October. 
