96 
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 
the interior of the ball has become dry during summer (which is frequently the 
case with large plants), all slight watering afterwards only moistens the outside 
of the ball. The best remedy for this is to take a blunt pointed stick and pierce 
holes through the centre of it, and give a good soakiDg of water. In your case 
administer a good top-dressing of fresh loam and well decayed cow dung (three 
parts of the former to one of the latter) just before housing for the winter, and 
afterwards occasionally during the winter stir the surface with a blunt pointed 
stick, this will beep the soil light. Allow moisture to pass through freely, and, 
with a little heat and moisture applied in November, most probably your flowers 
will expand freely ; for in nearly all cases like yours, when flower-buds fall off in 
winter, the evil arises either from want of heat or moisture. The camellia is one 
of those patient plants which does not show injury for months after it has 
received it, unless the injury is very great indeed ; for the camellia, like all true 
evergreens, is not actually in a state of rest at any time of the year. 
Lettuces. — New Subscriber. — The object of tying up lettuces is to blanch 
them. The outer leaves are tied over the inner ones so as to exclude the latter 
as much as possible from light. You must not, however, tie them up in wet 
weather, or the plants are apt to rot at the heart. 
Eaely Peas.- — B. C. J. — It is doubtless a good plan to shelter early peas 
when growing by placing a hedge of matting, or of plaited beau sticks, or other 
protection between the rows, wbera they are much exposed to cold winds, pro- 
vided the protection does not shade the plant too much. 
Lakkspue. — W. S. — Sow at the end of March. Thin out to six inches apart, 
and leave them to their fate. Do not think of raising it in heat, or trans- 
planting it. 
Gloxinias. — Lady Subscriber. — You were right in drying off your seedlings 
in autumn. Before starting the roots again, they should be taken out of the old 
soil and fresh potted in a mixture of equal parts of light sandy peat and leaf- 
mould, to which may be added a small portion of well-decomposed cow-dung, 
using plenty of drainage. Afterwards they should be placed in moist heat, and 
fully exposed to light. When they begin to grow, water should be given in 
small quantities at first, but freely both to roots and tops after the plants have 
become somewhat advanced. 
Vine Planting. — C. S. B. — In planting your vines, spread the roots out on 
the surface of the border, and cover them with no more soil than will keep them 
firm. In order to prevent the roots from becoming dry, cover the border with 
litter until the plants are established. 
Annuals. — Jane. — The following sown at the end of the month, in a gentle 
heat, will smarten up the empty shelves of your greenhouse in autumn, when 
your other plants are out of doors, viz. : Rhodanthe Manglesii, Nemophila 
insignis, Yiscaria oculata, Portulaca splendens and Thellusoni, Lobelia ramosa, 
Salpiglossis, Sehizanthus retusus, Zinnia elegans, Braebycoma iberidifolia, Mar'ynia 
fragrans, Clintonia pulchella, Mesembryantheraum (tricolor) pyropoeum, Balsams 
and Cockscombs, and to these may be added the Fringed Chinese Primulas, 
Cinerarias, and Calceolarias, which, if sown about the end of March, will flower 
in autumn. 
Vine Disease. — Alpha. — The white mould which you found on the roots of 
your vines, in a concrete border, is probably connected with the oidium, and 
may have been encouraged by excessive dryness. As your vines are probably now 
breaking, all you cau do at present is to stir the soil and introduce some lime 
and sulphur near the roots, and apply sulphur frequently to the vines inside the 
house. 
Spanish Chestnuts. — Jacob. — You should not allow your Spanish chestnuts 
to form more than one main stem. This can be readily managed by shortening 
or stopping the laterals ; and if the main stem once gets the mastery, the laterals 
will dwindle away, or can be readily removed. If the trees are very young, then 
the strongest laterals may be cut. clean out ; but pinching the ends when growing 
is better, until the main stem is in full vigour of growth. 
