132 
THE ELORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 
the plant is about two feet in height, I then stop it ; this causes 
laterals to push out at every joint with fruit on each ; these should 
be stopped one joint before the fruit; as the fruit swells it may be 
allowed to hang down over the pot, or be tied up to the stick. I 
find this is the most convenient plan of training, as when the plants 
come well into bearing they can be taken down and placed on the 
kerb or back wall of the pine-pit, where they continue to grow and 
bear quite well, and another lot of younger plants can theD be put 
upon the shelf for succession ; by this way of management I find no 
difficulty in having a continual supply of cucumbers all through the 
winter and spring, and although I have capital hot water pits, I find 
it saves me a great deal of trouble to grow the early crops in pots. 
I very seldom admit air in winter, allowing the thermometer to 
range from 55° to 90°, as it happens to be sunny or cloudy weather. 
Melons may be grown exactly in the same way, and in pots of the 
same size (fifteen inch), only using nothing but pure strong loam to 
grow them in. 
I have just now a crop in pots (the Beechwood), swelling beau- 
tifully. I allow only two fruit to each pot, aud one plant for the 
same, giving liquid manure freely when the fruit is swelling ■ it will 
thus be seen how this part of the house may be turned to account, 
where in nine cases out of ten, it is to be seen empty and, of course, 
useless. If it happens I am short of young cucumber plants, I turn 
out the old plants that have borne a crop, reduce the ball, and repot 
them, coiling the old stems down, and leaving a young shoot just 
above the soil. An old plant managed in this way will grow and' 
bear quite as well as young plants. 
A few ash-leaf kidney potatoes may also, in October, be potted 
(nine inch pots), and placed on the shelves ; and, by continuing to 
pot a few every three weeks, will keep up a succession. 
Trench beans may also be started in November, strawberries in 
February on the front shelf, and melons may also now be sown to 
take the place of the cucumbers, if there should be any convenience 
for growing the latter out of doors ; in March the vines will require 
to be brought into the house, when the temperature must be lowered 
for a few weeks ; yet if the cucumbers, etc., are kept free from 
insects, and are in good health, they will scarcely feel the change. 
In the management of a hothouse there is one thing to be most 
particularly borne in remembrance, viz., never to crowd plants — 
always leave plenty of room for everything to grow and thrive ; 
better to have a “ little and often,” than a great deal and then none. 
If I may presume to give advice to amateurs on another point, I 
would just observe, that the quickest and most economical, as well as 
the most complete knowledge to be acquired how to manage, as well 
as to build a hothouse, is to consult an experienced practical gardener ; 
to trust neither to his own judgment nor that of any other person 
inexperienced in practical horticulture, but to take the advice of a 
clever gardener, both in building and management, and to abide by 
it; by so doing he will not only save himself trouble and expense, 
but will gain more experience in six months than he will do by books 
in six years. 
