THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 
191 
much light as possible. If the pots are full of roots, shift at once, 
and, as soon as the plants seem to have taken to the fresh pot, stop 
them, and regulate the shoots. In May, or as soon as mild warm 
weather has set in, remove them to a cold frame, and treat them 
during the summer as recommended for last season — giving a second 
shift as early as it may be required ; but a large shift should not be 
given at this season. They should be wintered as recommended last 
year, and if they are considered large enough for blooming, they 
should he allowed to remain in the greenhouse until the blossoms 
expand ; while in the bloom they may be placed in any airy cool 
situation, and if screened from the mid-day sun the colour will staud 
longer. If large handsome specimens are desired, it will probably 
be necessary to grow them another season, and in that case the 
plants must be placed in a growing temperature early in spring, 
and stopped and potted as recommended for other seasons. Well- 
established specimens may be kept in the greenhouse after flowering, 
to make wood, and may be removed to the plant ground in autumn ; 
but a sheltered situation should be afforded them, and they must 
be removed to the greenhouse as soon as heavy rains shall have set 
in, especially if they have been fresh potted during the season. 
Good rich turfy peat is the only suitable soil for this genus, and as 
the best pieces only should be used, break it up into nice small bits, 
and mix it liberally with sharp silver-sand and broken potsherds, or 
small bits of charcoal. In potting, make the fresh soil rather firm 
about the old balls. 
REMINDERS FOR GARDEN WORK IN JUNE. 
s>INKS, Cauxations, and Picotees.— H aving reduced the stems to 
a one, and the buds on that stem to two or three, the forwardest must 
be tied round the middle ; to prevent it from bursting, worsted or 
bast matting will do to tie with ; some use strips of parchment or 
goldbeater'3 skin, and gum them round the bud, which is a bad plan ; 
worsted will stretch a little, so that though restrained, the bud is not damaged, 
and bast matting is tied with only the single knot, so that even that would give 
enough to prevent damage. Cards are then to be placed under the flower to bold 
up the guard petals, which should be laid down as they develop themselves, and 
form a circular outline as near as may be ; the easiest mode of putting on the 
card is to make a circular mark in the middle of it, as large as a sixpence, and cut 
across it five times ; by pressing the little finger upon it, the card gives way, and 
a round hole is formed, the angular points forming so many springs to hold the 
end in its place ; the card is passed on by cutting it from the edge to the hole in 
the centre. The first row of large petals having been laid down, the next sized 
petals should be brought down also as they bloom, laying one over each pair of 
the guard petals; so on with a third row if there be one, and cover the pairs of 
the second ; the others must form a crown or high centre, and any that happen 
to be ragged or self-coloured, or in the way, must be pulled out. They must have 
no sun nor rain to wet the flowers when they once open ; oiled paper caps held 
above the flower with a stick are mostly used. When the first flowers are perfect, 
the work of propagation must be done by piping, that is, the sprigs round the 
bottom of the stem are taken off two inches long, the lower leaves stripped off, 
and planted in rich earth, watered till it is like mud, hand-glasses covered over 
them, and shaded from the mid-day sun. 
Roses. — B ud as soon as the stocks have grown enough to offer an oppor- 
tunity ; their bark should readily peel off. Take a bud from a rose you wish to 
June. 
