THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 
215 
the pot with crocks, and fill up nearly to the surface with rather 
fine peaty soil, and press it rather firmly, making the surface level, 
and cover the latter with a thin stratum of silver sand, and give a 
moderate watering through a fine rose, to make firm the surface, and 
prevent the seeds beiug buried too deeply. Sprinkle the seeds upon 
the surface thus prepared, and drop a little silver sand over them. 
Place the pot in a saucer of water, and never apply water to the 
surface of the soil until the plants are up and well-established, but 
keep the saucer regularly supplied. A cucumber frame, or any 
warm situation, will answer for raising the plants iu, but if in a 
position where water from the syringe will be liable to fall on 
the pot, this will be dangerous in cariying the seeds beyond the 
depth at which they vegetate, and in this case the bell-glass should 
be large enough to throw off whatever water may fall on it. When 
the seedlings are fairly up, remove the glass, and inure them to the 
air of the house, or pit, giving plenty of water in the saucer, and 
also overhead. When sufficiently strong to bear handling, pot them 
singly in four-inch pots, and place them in a moist strong heat, afford- 
ing them a shady situation until they get established in their pots, 
with a liberal supply of water. During summer let them occupy a 
position near the glass, but screened from the direct rays of the 
sun ; top them as may be necessary to induce compact bushy speci- 
mens, and maintain a moist warm temperature. 
If the plants were sown early and go on properly, they will 
probably have well filled their pots with roots by the beginning or 
middle of August, and such should be shifted into the next size 
larger pot, but only a small shift should be given at this period, as 
the growing season should be considered at an end by the middle of 
September. After this the temperature should be cooler and drier, 
and the plants should be gradually accustomed to a circulation of 
air, and full exposure to the sun’s rays, giving no more water to the 
soil than is sufficient to keep the plants from flagging. The Lisian- 
thus is a somewhat precarious subject to winter, being very liable 
to damp off at the neck, and beginners will act wisely in providing 
against all losses, by growing a few spare plants. I have wintered 
my plants in a close part of the greenhouse, with little or no loss, 
and also in a cool part of the stove, but I have occasionally' lost 
severely in both situations. Whether in the stove or greenhouse, 
the soil should be very sparingly supplied with water, and the pots 
should be placed in flats, and water given in those, never wetting 
the foliage nor surface soil ; and it will be unnecessary as well as 
dangerous to water oftener than may be absolutely required. 
Maintain a night temperature of from 45° to 50°, which will be 
sufficiently high for the winter. Early in February remove the 
plants to a sharp, moist heat, of from 70° to 75°, or 85° will do no 
injury, provided a humid atmosphere is maintained. As soon as 
they start into growth, shift into pots a good size larger than those 
in which they have been wintered, clearing away as much of the 
sodden soil as can be done without injury to the roots. Keep them 
near the glass, and as warm and moist as is convenient, sprinkling 
overhead frequently with the syringe. Stop and peg down, or tie 
July. 
