THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 
24S 
then for two or three days, and, when thoroughly dry, I shake them 
out of their pots, trim in any straggling roots, and re-pot into as 
small pots as the roots will admit of, shaking the mould well in 
among the fibres. When potted I set them in the shade, and give 
them a good watering, to make the soil firm ; afterwards I water 
sparingly, until they have begun to grow freely, when they require 
a more liberal supply, especially in dry hot weather, when they may 
be watered twice a day all over their leaves, from a fine-rosed pot. 
In about a week or ten days’ time, I remove them to a situation 
where they are exposed to the full influence of the sun during the 
greater part of the day. When they have well filled their pots 
with roots, they are shifted into others, two sizes larger than those 
in which they are flowered. 
About this stage of their growth care is especially taken to rub 
olf all young shoots except one or two on each main branch, and 
these should be as equal in size and strength as possible all over the 
plant, in order that they may all flower at the same period, which 
they will do, or nearly so, provided too many be not left on the 
plants ; and, as large trusses of flowers are more attractive than 
small ones, though there may be double the number of the latter, it 
is necessary to encourage the strongest and healthiest Bhoots only. 
I should say for a plant in a six-inch pot, two shoots would be 
sufficient to leave ; for one in an eight-inch pot, three or four ; and for 
one in an eleven-inch pot, from four to six, the grand point being, as 
before stated, to get all the shoots left on the plants to bloom at the 
same time. The trusses will keep in perfection for a month or 
six weeks. A strong one-year-old plant, with a single stem, flowered, 
hydrangea-fashion, presents a brilliant appearance. In staging the 
plants for the winter, I place them as near the glass as possible, and 
give no more water than merely keeps them from flagging. About 
the beginning of February they are introduced to the forcing house, 
and placed where they can receive the greatest amount of sun. 
They there require an increased supply of water ; and when they 
have commenced growing vigorously, and while throwing up their 
flower-trusses, they like a copious supply, in bright dry weather 
sometimes twice a day, gently syringing the foliage and flower- 
trusses with a fine-rosed syringe, morning and evening. Liquid 
manure made from sheep’s droppings, applied two or three times a 
week, adds much to the strength of the truss and to the beauty of 
the foliage ; but this should not be applied till the trusses have 
made their appearance. As soon as these can be plainly distin- 
guished from the points of the shoots, the latter must be carefully 
nipped off, immediately before them. The flower-stalks will then 
take the lead and grow most vigorously, A stick will be required 
for each shoot, but it should not show above the foliage ; the flower- 
stalk will be sufficiently strong to support the truss. Soon after 
the shoots are stopped, they will send out laterals. These should be 
picked out with the point of a knife on their first appearance, 
in order that the whole energy of the plant may be directed to the 
main shoots and flower-trusses. By the middle or end of May, 
plants treated as above will be in excellent order for the con- 
Aogust. 
