THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 
253 
duration of the flowers. If well attended to during the summer, 
the wood will be perfectly ripened by the time the flowering is over, 
and the plants may be wintered as before. If it is necessary to 
prune them back it should be done a few weeks before starting them, 
in order to allow time for the wounds to heal over before growth 
has commenced. This plant has a fine effect, either planted out or 
plunged in a basket of moss, and suspended from the roof of a stove 
or orchid house. In this way the flowers show themselves to advan- 
tage ; and if the plants are kept moist while growing, and otherwise 
well treated, they will last for several years in perfection. Cuttings 
made of the young shoots root freely ; insert them in sand, cover 
with a bell-glass, and place them in a temperature of 70°, where 
there is a gentle bottom-heat. When rooted, pot them off singly 
into two or three-inch pots, and place them in a close, warm 
situation ; if rooted early they will make strong plants by autumn. 
THE FUCHSIA. 
BY A SUBSCRIBER. 
JN cultivating this useful flower, I begin by striking the 
cuttings about the end of this month, using silver-sand 
and leaf-mould for the purpose, and placing them in a 
close frame or pit, where there is a little bottom-heat. 
When the sun shines, I shade for four or five hours 
during midday ; and, after the cuttings have been in for three or 
four days, I pull off the light for ten or twelve minutes every morn- 
ing, in order to allow the confined air and damp to escape. As soon 
as they are rooted, I pot them off into three-inch pots, in a mixture 
of equal parts silver sand and leaf-mould. I prefer that mixture for 
the winter potting, for, being light and porous, it allows the water 
to pass off quickly. When potted off, they are replaced in the 
frame or pit ; and, as soon as they become established, I remove 
them to a warm and shady part of the greenhouse ; after hardening 
there for a week or two, they are removed to a more airy part of the 
house, where they remain until January, when they receive a little 
artificial heat, say from 40° to 45° during night. When the roots 
make a fresh start, I shift them, some into five-inch pots and some 
into a size larger, according to the strength of the plants, using a 
mixture of equal parts silver-sand, turfy peat, and leaf-mould, In 
February they should have from 50° to 60° of heat during the day- 
time, and from 40° to 50° during night. As the day lengthens, I 
increase the day temperature to from 60° to 70°, the night heat 
being about 5° less, maintaining a moist atmosphere at all times, 
with air both day and night when convenient. The plants should 
be kept as near the glass as possible, and should be shaded during 
bright sunshine. If they do well, they will require shifting about 
once in five or six weeks, and before the operation the mould about 
the roots should bo rather dry than wet. After they are shifted, 
August. 
