324 
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 
yon see signs of growth, but sparingly until they have made leaves, 
etc., to draw up and give off moisture. March will generally be 
found to be the time when they will commence growth. As soon as 
they are above the soil, remove them to a situation where they will 
be near the glass and have plenty of air, for after success depends 
upon getting them strong at this stage. Do not allow them to 
remain in the small pots in which they were wintered until their 
roots become matted; the best way of managing this is occasionally 
to examine them. I always shift into flowering-pots just as the 
plants have protruded an abundance of fresh roots against the sides 
of the pots. For strong bulbs with one stem use twelve-inch pots,, 
and for such as produce two stems a size larger. Weaker bulbs, 
such as produce about seven flowers, will not require pots above 
eight inches, and offsets of the first year will not require above five- 
inch pots. 
In shifting into the flowering-pots, be careful to place the crown 
of the bulbs about three inches below the surface of the soil, as they 
produce a quantity of strong roots from the base of the stem. They 
ought, after potting, to occupy a place near the glass; and avoid a 
warm house if you wish a strong bloom. As regards watering, they 
must have a careful supply, neither too much nor too little ; but 
if they can be sprinkled overhead with the syringe before shutting 
up the house, they will not require much water at the roots for 
some time. Towards the end of May, if the weather is favourable, 
they may be placed in a warm, sheltered spot out of doors, and ought 
to have their stems tied to a stake, in order to prevent their being 
injured by wind. A few plants may be retained in the greenhouse, 
with a view to have them in flower earlier. Indeed, I place some of 
my bulbs in a moderately close, warm house early in March, and I 
manage to have them in flower early in August; others I retard, to 
prolong their flowering until October; but a season’s practice will 
be the best guide in this matter. 
These lilies are not liable to suffer from the attacks of insects, 
but the green-fly will occasionally make its appearance upon such of 
the plants as may have been kept over warm. If so, fumigate at 
once with tobacco-smoke, or wash the leaves with weak tobacco- 
water. 
I have said nothing about soil, for they are not very particular 
in this respect. I use fresh fibrous loam and peat in equal portions, 
with a sufficient quantity of sand to render it porous. If peat can- 
not be had, use leaf-soil. Some say, however, that the flowers are 
much higher coloured in peat. 
The only thing requiring further notice is, to be careful of the 
flowers when you have got them, syringing overhead, or a damp, 
stagnant atmosphere will spoil them, just as it would a light-coloured 
camellia flower. I once lost a fine head of bloom in this way. If 
you are anxious to propagate them, it may be effected by means of 
the scales of the bulbs. Fill a pan similar to that recommended for 
growing them in ; lay the scales upon the surface, and sprinkle a 
little fine soil over them ; give a little water, and place the pan in a 
close, warm atmosphere. This is, however, a part of the business 
