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February's Work in the Garden \ 
By John Johnson, Massachusetts I 
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THE 1917 catalogs are now in the hands of most 
gardeners, and but a brief perusal of them is gen- 
erally sufficient to kindle the spark of enthusiasm 
which during winter is apt to grow dull. Assuming that 
sul)sef|uent success is governed largely by the amoimt of 
enthusiasm and skill displayed at this time, the gardener 
needs no further reminder to get busy. 
In preparing the seed order be not misled by glowing 
descriptive reports of the novelties listed. Rely on 
standard varieties of proven merit of both flowers and 
vegetables for main crops, and procure seed from a 
reliable source. Old seed, or that of low germinative 
power will never produce vigorous stock. It is, how- 
ever, good practice to keep abreast of the times by an- 
nually testing out a few of the newer varieties. Having 
placed the order, the gardener's attention naturally turns 
to making provision for the reception of seeds. How 
about the hot-bed frames ? Those of us who have no 
better facility for making an early start must now be 
hustling. 
Making Hot-beds. — A mixtures of decomposing horse 
manure and urine-soaked litter generate a suitable heat 
for a lasting' hot-bed. Horse droppings alone give a 
maximum of heat which is soon spent, and for this rea- 
son it is desirable to employ some strawy litter. Leaves 
or even cornstalks to the amount of one-third may be 
used to substitute the straw. 
This heating material should be turned on alternate 
days for abotit a week, sprinkled with water, if at all 
dry, and if the amount of material is small, warm water 
should be used ; but soaking must be avoided. 
The depth to which hot-beds should be made varies 
with local conditions, and of course varies to meet local 
requirements. During zero weather the bed may be 
made 20 inches deep when well trodden, while 12 inches 
or less would suffice where only a few degrees of frost 
are expected. Again, where manure is easily procured 
the temperature of beds of moderate dej^th will be found 
less difficult to control than those of greater bulk. Dur- 
ing February there are days which are not fit for the 
tincovering of frames, and the greater the bulk of heat- 
ing material the more likelihood will there be of a stifling 
atmosphere being created, and this must be guarded 
against. 
Hot-beds serve two distinct purposes. In some cases 
a crop is grown to maturity with this aid, and on the 
other hand the hot-bed is required merely to assist in 
starting crops which at a later date are planted in the 
open. Where early vegetables are sought, a start may 
now be made by planting seeds of string beans, radish, 
lettuce, cucumber of the white spine type, kohlrabi, 
carrots, French forcing or Short Horn variety, onion 
sets and potatoes. Any of these may be brought to ma- 
turity if planted in the hot-bed now. 
It is also a good time to start raising stock for out- 
door planting of cabbage, cauliflower, celery and ce- 
leriac, egg plant, pepper, tomato, onion, leek and parsley. 
In preparing the seed pans or flats for any of the 
above-mentioned subjects, excessive drainage will be 
fiuite unnecessary if the compost tised is of an open char- 
acter. 
1 he hackne\'ed .•idvice, "provide anijile drainage," is 
not altogether apjilicable in this case, as the seedlings 
wil! not be required to occupy the soil for an extended 
period. Hence the soil is not likely to become sour. 
If provision be made to keep the soil in the pan or flat, 
i.e., placing a crock or a little moss over the holes in the 
bottom, is all that will be needed. Fill the receptacles 
with sifted soil, press lightly, water and allow to drain 
before sowing the seed. The object for not using much 
drainage material is that an equable degree of moisture 
is easily maintained without the necessity of much arti- 
ficial watering. Since the application of water in this 
particular instance would be in all probability given over- 
head, both time and young plants will be saved by such 
avoidance. The adage, "sow thinly," is deserving of 
greater recognition than is connnon. So many gardeners, 
having a packet of seed, insist on emptying the package 
when ofttimes half the quantity of seeds would suffice 
for the space given. Therefore we would emphasize the 
importance of sowing thinly. Wholesale losses are sus- 
tained from "damping," as the seeds germinate by this 
neglect, and if the cultivator be fortunate enough to 
liring a heavy sowing safely through without such loss, 
the seedlings are bound to suffer crowding before they 
can be liandled. 
Weak attenuated stock to begin with is courting fail- 
ure. \ever sow thickly, and by all means see that there 
is facility for safe accommodation of everything before 
commencing to prick off seedlings. There is greater 
satisfaction in growing a little uncommonly well than in 
the ])roduction of acres of rubbish. 
Likewise, a limited number well grown, whether flow- 
ers or vegetables, will be more productive and of finer 
quality than a larger number enfeebled from want of 
space for proper development. 
Annuals wliich benefit by a long season of growth 
before flowering may now be sown. Treat as advised- 
tor early vegetables. Most of them germinate freely in 
a temperature not exceeding 60° ; prick off the seedlings 
when they can be handled, and gradually inure to cooler 
treatment. Sow antirrhinum, larkspur, begonia, ver- 
bena, marguerite carnation and pansy. 
In the greenhouse, push the propagation of all bedding 
stock. Altemantheras, heliotropes, geraniums, ver- 
benas, etc., root readily and grow more freely from cut- 
tings made at this season than in the autumn. 
Pruning and Treatment of Fruit Trees. — If there still 
remains to be done any pruning of frtiit trees, make an 
eft'ort this month to push the work to a finish. 
.\s to methods of pruning, the cultivator almost in- 
variably has ideals all his own. Ideals which when put 
into effect are truly significant of the operator's degree 
of knowledge, in this particular, of what persists in Na- 
ture. Very briefly, the primary object of pruning fruit 
trees is to control and maintain a proper balance of 
growth, with a view to producing larger and better qual- 
itv fruit, and when given intelligent care from the time 
of planting, a tree will usually come into bearing when 
the age of puberty is reached. While severe pruning at 
the time of planting is a commendable practice, the writer 
is of opinion that subsequent pruning should be less 
vigorous than is generally the case. Take for example 
newly planted nursery stock. The strong growths of 
the previous sea.'^on are ctit back to about one-third, and 
crossing l^ranches and all puny shoots eliminated entirely. 
This is good for the tree because in transplanting the 
root system is bound to suffer some check, and the relief 
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