200 
THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE OF AMERICA 
tissue will get bruised, and this will spoil the chance for 
success. 
Inverted T-building is the mode used in working a 
bud on a grape vine, as it is the returning sap that sup- 
plies the bud in this case, and this sap will not pass the 
cross cut. The writer has budded grapes successfully 
without making any cross cut, just open far enough 
lengthwise, spring the vine a little and the bud can be 
put in place, and the sap will continue to flow all around 
it without interruption. 
Inarching : This mode of propagation, which is also 
called grafting by approach, depends on the same prin- 
ciple as grafting, except in this case both stock and scion 
are nourished by their own roots, while the union is 
taking place. Inarching was formerly employed for 
uniting two or more trees for picturesque effect, more 
than for the purpose of propagation. But inarching is 
now chiefly employed in propagating such exotic plants 
as cannot be readily propagated by other means. The 
writer has found it to be the best way of changing grape 
vines from one variety to another and also the quickest 
way. It can be done in a case of this kind without losing 
one year's crop from the plant operated upon. Inarching 
is most successful when both plants are in full vigor of 
growth. In operating, place the plants in some con- 
venient position so that the parts to be joined will come 
nicely together, tie them together just below the point 
where the union is to be, cut a strip of bark from two 
to six inches in length, — according to the thickness of 
the stock. Then the inner bark of both should be brought 
straight together and tied quite firmly ; in about three 
weeks the top of the stock may be slightly headed back, — 
to encourage the sap to flow to the scion. This heading 
back ought to be done a little at a time, and cleared off 
at j)runing time when the plant is dormant. — Paper read 
before Stamford Horticultural Society. 
HOW TO ENRICH THE SOIL 
'Tp \\'( ) things are essential for the successful tillage 
■*■ of the soil and the feeding of the crops grown 
therein. The first is to see that the soil is rendered 
as perfect a rooting medium as possible. By this is 
meant making the texture porous, getting rid of stagnant 
moisture, and keeping it well supplied with humus. Soil 
in clods or lumps is in an unsuitable condition for good 
culture. 
Manures judiciously applied, in conjunction with de- 
cayed vegetable matter and gritty substances, help to 
achieve this desirable object. Thus, in the case of 
heavy soils horse manure, vegetable refuse, and grit 
help to break up the plastic clay, create openings in 
the solid mass through which surface water can 
readily pass into the subsoil, the sunshine and rains 
gain easy access to the interior to sweeten and purify, 
and at the same time chemically change certain latent 
foods existing in the soil into a soluble form for the 
sustenance of the crops. Cow manures benefit the 
lighter soils, bind the particles closer together, and 
maintain a cool condition in hot weather. Moreover, 
all supply humus, vegetable mould which, owing to its 
dark color, absorbs the sun and warms the soil, and 
also provides a home for the essential bacteria organ- 
isms which are increasingly working at (ransforming 
certain substances in the soil into valuable plant food. 
The office of manures, then, is to primarily maintain 
the texture in good condition, provide a healthy pab- 
ulrm for the roots, and yield a little food for the crops. 
The reader must, therefore, clearly understand that 
he cannot continue to grow good crops without the 
addition of animal manure or vegetable substances of 
some kind. We emphasize this point because some 
amateurs imagine that they can dispense with manure 
and rely upon artificial fertilizers alone. If manures 
are difiicult to get, collect all the leaves, weeds, lawn 
mowings, and refuse, put this into a heap till winter, 
then dig them in. 
Fertilizers or plant foods, as their name correctly 
implies, supply food for crops only ; they do not assist 
in any way to improve or maintain the texture of the 
soil in a proper condition. They are either absorbed 
by the plants or crops, or dissolved, and pass away 
into the drainage. This fact should be carefully noted. 
Be it known that three main elements are essential 
foods for crops. These are nitrogen, phosphates, and 
potash. Some crops require a little magnesia, but 
well-tilled soils, as a rule, have sufficient of this ele- 
ment to meet all requirements. Clay soils, too, con- 
tain potash in a latent state, but if lime be added 
occasionally the former will be liberated in sufficient 
quantity to supply the needs of crops. Light soils are 
deficient in potash, and so it must be supplied in the 
form of wood ashes, since kainit and sulphate of pot- 
ash are practically unobtainable. 
Some cultivators believe in the theory of supplying 
each plant with a special formula, but there is no real 
necessity to do this unless certain crops, like sweet 
peas or roses, are made a specialty. The various com- 
pound fertilizers advertised are far more efficacious 
and far more handy to use on allotments and in aver- 
age gardens than home-made mixtures. The dift'er- 
ent elements have been prepared and blended in accu- 
rate and due proportion by means of special machin- 
ery, and hence are capable of being utilized more 
promptly and effectively by the roots than rough and 
r^dy mixtures prepared by- the grower. The science 
and skill of the chemist, based on the accurate knowl- 
edge of the jn^oportions of food required by crops, has 
enabled him to exactly determine the ideal combina- 
tion of food that will yield the best results. So, then, 
the reader will be well advised to take advantage of 
scientific knowledge, and use any of the prepared fer- 
tilizers advertised. 
A word of caution to novitiates. Remember that 
fertilizers are plant foods for immediate use, and hence 
these, to be used to the greatest advantage, must not 
be applied to the soil in autumn or winter, like animal 
manures, but during the growing seasons, when roots 
are in active growth, and can at once commence their 
absorption through the medium of the fine hair-like 
root fibres. To apply otherwise means loss of the 
food, as it would be dissolved b}- the moisture and 
filtered away into the subsoil. A little fertilizer 
sprinkled along the drills before sowing the seeds is 
always a helpful encouragement to successful ger- 
mination and robust growth of the resultant seedlings. 
Another point, avoid ajiplying fertilizers in excess of 
the quantities stated in the accompanying directions 
for use. 
In a general wav apply fertilizers to vegetalile 
crops when thinned, and again a month later. Crops 
like celery, marrows, leeks, lettuce, etc., are benefited 
by frequent applications. Hardy flowers are also bene- 
fited by applications once a week until the plants are 
in flower. Roses, too. may be treated similarly. 
Greenhouse plants may be given doses frequently, 
once the jilants are well rooted, discontinuing the 
suppl}- when in flower. If given when plants are in 
flower, their flowering period is often ' shortened. 
Tomatoes feed frequently after the first bunch of 
fruit has formed. — Gardciiiiin^ (English). 
