Essentials in Cyclamen Culture^ 
By James Stuart, New York 
THE first procedure in the cultivation of Cycla- 
men is, of course, the procuring of good seeds. 
There are two distinct strains of Cyclamen. 
What is known as the Continental strain is largely 
grown by commercial growers and has the advantages 
of being fairly easy growers, early flowering and very 
floriferous. The foliage of this strain is very dis- 
tinctively variegated, which, to some, is an added at- 
traction. The private gardener who grows for exhi- 
bition, however, invariably prefers an English strain. 
It mav be a trifle harder to grow and flower well, but, 
if procured from a reliable seedsman, will generously 
show up superior in color, form and substance. 
The seeds should be sown from the middle of Au- 
gust to the middle of September, and if the plants are 
A Spcciiiii-ii Cychiinoi PUiiit Grozmi for the Flozvcr Shozi'S. 
required for Christmas flowering August first would 
.be none too early for sowing. I prefer a seed box to 
.a seed pan, as the box contains moisture better, and 
an even supply of moisture is a very important con- 
sideration in Cyclamen growing. In fact, if I was to 
give you but one advice on growing 
Cyclamen. I would say, never let them 
get dry at the roots. Capable growers 
know that the time to water a plant is 
just as it begins to get dry and not after 
it has dried out ; the former is the time 
to water Cyclamen. Some plants will 
recover from a drying out but not a 
Cyclamen, this, no doubt, being due to 
.a hardening of the bulbous rootstock. 
Fibrous loam, leaf mould, sand and 
fine charcoal in about equal proportions, 
with a little well decayed cow manure, 
and not too finely sifted makes a good 
mixture for the seeds. If the seeds art- 
sown in shallow rows, cultivating can 
be done as the seeds are germinating. 
The rows should be two inches apart 
and the seeds nlaced one-quarter inch 
in the rows ; this will keep the first 
leaf from becoming drawn. Cover 
the seeds slightly, water thoroughly, put a light of 
glass over the box and place in a temperature of 60 
-to 65 deg. at night, with fresh seeds most every one 
should germinate, and as the seedlings are sending 
up their second leaf they are ready for pricking off. 
Here again, I prefer a box to potting into small pots, 
for small pots will get dry occasionally, even with 
the most careful grower. The compost should be a 
trifle rougher, and a little less sand and charcoal used 
at this time than with the seed mixture. In fact', at 
each shift, the mixture should be coarser and heavier, 
and the final potting composed of three parts turfy 
loam, one part cow manure with enough sand and 
rough charcoal to keep the compost sweet and porous. 
B}' early Spring the seedlings should be ready for 
three or three and a half inch pots and thereafter as 
the}- require it, to larger pots up to seven and eight 
inch, according to size required and time of flowering. 
The last potting should be done not later than the end 
of September. Avoid potting too loose or too firm; 
if too loose the foliage will be soft and lanky and un- 
able to hold up the flowers, and if too firm the growth 
will be stunted. 
By growing the plants on a second year large ex- 
hibition specimens can be had that is not possible with 
young plants. However, the percentage of good 
plants is not very large, especially if the plants have 
been kept in flower a long time. In starting them 
off a second time, all the old flowers and decaying 
leaves should be cleaned out and the plants shifted 
into two sizes larger a pot. The roots ought to be in 
good condition and should not be disturbed, and with 
generous feeding this should carry them to the next 
flowering season. The principal trouble to guard 
against in growing large plants is always to be on 
the outlook for decaying leaves, as they have to lose 
all old leaves as the young ones develop. The old ones 
should be pulled clean out on the least sign of becom- 
ing yellow, for if the leaf stem is not pulled clean out, 
decaying spreads rapidly and half of the plant is gone 
before it is detected. If decaying does get started, 
clean out as well as possible and blow in a mixture of 
lime and sulphur on the affected part. 
The only insect Cyclamen are troubled with is the 
* Read before Wesfchester-Fairfield County Horticultural Society. 
A liunsc Slunviui; Txvo Benches of iyelaiiicii Ready for the Exhibition Tables. 
cyclamen mite. But this mite is enough to make up 
for the lack of others, for once the plants are infested 
with this insect you might as well give up and start 
(Continued on page 278.) 
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