giiimmiiitiiiijiiiiiiiiimMtiirt Kiiitiim miiiMiiiiiiiiniiimitiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiminiiiiiiiiiifiiiimitiiiiiiiitiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiliiiiiiimimM mitiiiiiJiiiimiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiitiliilill 
Work for November in the Garden 
I John Johnson, Massachusetts j 
iriinii!iHiiiiniiiiiininiii'iiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii!iiiiiii;:iiiiiiiiiiiii:iiii;iiiiiitii{|iii'iiiiitiiiiiiiiiiiiiii!iiiiii!iiiiiiiii^ 
Dl RIXG tlie month of Xovember the season's work 
in the outdoor garden is often brought to a close. 
It is not uncommon to see all winter covering in 
position this month on account of the shortage of labor 
for doing the work at the proper time which would be in 
most districts a month later. By all means have at hand, 
if possible, the necessary material for protection, whether 
wind screens, salt hay, leaves, or litter but defer the 
actual covering of roses, herbaceous, perennials, the 
strawberry bed, etc., until the ground is frozen to a 
depth of two or three inches. In northerly districts 
where rambler roses suffer the rigor of winter these 
may be taken down, tied, and weighted with logs or 
stones preparatory to covering. Bush roses may too 
be pegged down with stout wires or laid in trenches 
in readiness for final protection. 
Too early covering not only encourages premature 
growth in early spring which later sometimes results 
in heavy loss of valuable stock, but at the same time 
provides a safe hilding for mice and other harmful ver- 
min. When the work is left until the ground is frozen, 
V£rmin will have then in all probability found protection 
elsewhere. 
Mention of mice reminds one that at no time of the 
year can these pests be better dealt with than now that 
they are seeking winter quarters. A poisoned bait, as 
powdered strychnine mixed with crushed wheat or 
crushed oats should be placed in the burrows or at 
the entrance of the runs. In limited areas trapping 
may be resorted to. 
Vegetable Garden. Celery, beets, carrots and turnips 
as well as cauliflower should be lifted and stored in a 
frost proof cellar. While parsnips,- leeks and salsify 
suflfer no harm from freezing it is well to have these 
vegetables dug before the ground freezes too hard. 
Cabbage may be drawn and buried heads down outdoors 
in a dry and convenient situation. If left in the ground 
celery will need protection from hard frosts. Corn 
stalks make a capital material for this purpose and are 
readily removed during mild periods. Blanch Endive 
as required, and give surplus plants frame protection 
from now on. If frame protection cannot be afforded 
this crop, any tmused corners of sheds or outhouses 
may be utilized. 
Clean the asparagus plot if not already done, and pre- 
pare raspberries and blackberries for winter. Use every 
opportunity for digging or plowing and manuring 
vacant plots, and try to have the vegetable garden in 
good order before severe weather sets in. 
Forcing I'egefables. The time has arrived when the 
earliest batches of asparagus, rhubarb, seakale and 
chicory may be prepared for forcing. .Asparagus that 
was allowed to develop growth without cutting last 
spring will now be in condition for forcing. Prepare a 
lasting hotbed and cover with three or four inches of 
soil containing considerable leaf-mould. Select the 
strongest crowns and plant them closely together on 
this bed, then cover with^fine soil to the depth of six 
inches. The frame may b'e.kept closed, until the heads 
begin to show, when air shcaild be admitted to give 
color and flavor. A temperature of fiO" to 65° will 
promote sturdy growth and give a finer product than 
would a greater heat. 
If a few roots of rhubarb are lifted and exposed to 
368 
the elements for a week or so they will force quite easily. 
Rhubarb can be forced in any place of moderate wormth 
and where light is excluded. Pack the roots in light 
soil, or even rough litter. In fact almost any material 
holding moisture will answer. 
Although amongst the most desirable of vegetables 
for winter use, seakale is little grown in this country. 
The plants should be well matured before forcing and 
if there be any doubt in this regard lift a few' plants and 
expose them to the air for several days. The earliest 
crop of seakale is not always a success because the stock 
is immature, and exposure of the roots prior to forcing 
will partly rest them. A brisk bottom heat with top 
ventilation is necessary until growth commences, after- 
wards less air is needed. The plants must now be kept 
in absolute darkness to ensure perfect blanching. It is 
folly to regard any soil good enough for this crop. The 
formation of young roots is very rapid and unless the 
soil is of good quality, the first growth is not fine nor 
the aftergrowth prolonged. When the crowns have been 
planted a few days water them thoroughly and maintain 
moisture throughout the period of growth. 
Orchard. Pinish the planting of fruit trees as early in 
the month as possible. Dig the holes at least a foot wider 
than the roots cover. In planting yotmg stock, remove 
the top soil and then loosen the bottom to the depth of a 
spade. Replace in a slight mound in the center of the 
hcle, some of the finer soil, and set the tree upon it. 
Any jagged roots should be cut away with a sharp 
knife and always from the under side. Avoid the ex- 
tremes of shallow and deep planting. A good guide will 
be the soil mark on the stem of the tree as it was in 
the nursery. Lay out the roots evenly, plant firmly, 
water if the soil is at all dry and finish with a mulch. 
Stake the trees to lessen the strain on the roots and in 
so doing avoid the possibility of chafing the bark. Pro- 
tect the trees against cattle if necessary and later when 
snow flies, prevent rabbits girdling the trunks by wrap- 
ping them with tar paper or similar material. Apples, 
pears and plums should have their shoots shortened 
at planting time or soon after to about one-third. Cher- 
ries are best left unpruned the first season and the less 
they are cut in the future the better, as nothing encour- 
ages ''gumming'' more than injudicious use of the knife. 
Floivcr Garden. Planting in this department should 
be completed this month. Tulips, liliunis and other bulbs, 
as well as pansies, myosotis, etc., for spring and early 
summer effects should be in their permanent quarters. 
Cut down all hardy perennials blackened by frost and 
relegate rubbish to the burning heap. 
Prune deciduous shrubs that need it. Any which 
flower on wood made during the growing season may 
be cut hard back, while specimens that flower on growth 
made the previous season should be merely thinned. 
Avoid stift'ness at all times. Shrubs which are over- 
crowded in their present positions should be put in order 
by removing undesirable specimens. Apply a mulch of 
strawy litter to all choice shrubs which have been trans- 
Iilanted. 
Leaves collected in cleaning up the grounds should 
be piled for future use as leaf-mould. Take advantage 
of the open weather of the next few weeks for making 
new roads and pathways, as well as for cultivating any 
new ground which might be contemplated. 
