THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE OF AMERICA 
431 
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I Winter Flowering Begonias | 
I By Arthur Jackson, Michigan j 
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TT is hardly necessary to go into the origin of the 
winter flowering Begonias, as most gardeners are 
famihar with it. It i^ a hybrid of Socotrana and the 
Large Flowering Tuberoses varieties, and shows many 
of the good points of the latter in the way of flower, etc., 
carrying thick fleshy stems and bold green foliage with 
their wonderful flowers, many of which are borne on 
erect stems well above the foliage and make a great pic- 
ture in the cold vvintei' months. 
Others have a light drooping nature which I consider 
adds to their distinction and beauty, making altogether 
a most pleasing sight in groups or as individual plants. 
Their culture is eas\ . and with care anyone should be 
able to grow them w ith the utmost satisfaction. Origi- 
nating at the same place as these plants or most of the 
present varieties, Messrs. Clibram therefore having a 
knowledge of their treatment in England would say the 
dift'erence there and here is very small. In the care of 
new importations which occur in the spring. I would sa\' 
the best way I find to treat them is — put them in a shal- 
low flats of sand and decayed leaves, just covering the 
bulb or tuber, put in a temperature of about 65 to 70 
degrees, keep them moist, but not wet, and the\ will soon 
show signs of growth. 
After they have made about three inche- of growth, 
take out carefully so as not to break the roots and pot 
up in not too large a pot, this being their flowering period. 
using a compost of about one part loam, one part sand 
and one part leaf soil with a little old mushroom soil 
addintr a little well dtcaved cow manure mi.xed in. Use 
A coUcction of Winter Fhtzi'ci-iiii; Begonias f;rozvii in the greenho 
under the direction of Arthur Jaekson, siif^erintendent of the cstat 
Winter Flozi'ering Begonia Optima. 
no patent manures at any time and pot them not too firm. 
.\tter potting, return to same house or one carrying 
the same degree, giving a little shade at all times. Water- 
ing should be done with utmost care, as overwatering 
spells ruin. 2\lake sure a plant requires water by tapping 
or other method that the grower may be acquainted with. 
If overwatered the\- will remain stunted and ]K)or. 
Rust is their chief enemy, in most instances brought on 
Ijy thrip, which is assisted by neglectful watering ; in 
fact this is, I believe, the only jjest we have to encounter. 
1 find the best way to ward this off is frequent fumiga- 
tion, for which purpose I use "gas" in light doses, but 
would not advocate its use unless well acquainted with it. 
Dipping can also be resorted to, and any of the 
>tan(hird nicotine mixtures, or Aphine, which I have 
found (juite successful, may be used without fear or 
danger. In both cases, do it while the plants are 
small, for if kein clean then they will not require it 
in their more advanced stage of 
growth. 
I believe it is on this thrip or 
rust question that nianv growers 
fail, their plants turning sickly 
1(11 iking and refusing to grow. 
Then the grower casts them 
aside with the idea that it re- 
quires some special knowledge 
or requirement. 
Flowering Period. When in 
flower I find that by reducing the 
temperature to about 55 to 60 de- 
grees, they develop into a stronger 
and hardier jjlant, therefore, 
making them easier to handle and 
better for hon.ie work or decora- 
tion. 
Resting Period. After the 
flowering season is over (which 
lasts from 4 to 5 months ) and the 
|)lants begin to look shabby, 
gradually reduce their supply of 
water, put tliem on a shelf or 
other convenient place, giving 
full light and a temperature of 
about 50. Give just enough 
water at this resting period to pre- 
\ent shrinkage, but not enough 
to excite growtli, for about six to 
uses of .1. B. Sehlotwan eight weeks. 
at (irosse Point, Mieh. ( Coiltiiliird on f^a^^C 4^4.) 
