THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE OF AMERICA. 
65 
spraying. There are no exceptions to spraying, and 
not only should it be done thoroughly now but it will 
have to be supplemented several times during the sum- 
mer if any good is to come of it. Dormant spraying 
is not a cure-all, but for the control of San Jose Scale 
and Oyster Shell Scale it is indispensable. Lime-sulphur 
solution concentrated' to 33 degrees Beaume and diluted 
at the rate of one gallon of the solution to eight of water 
is quite safe to use when the trees are dormant. Scale- 
cide diluted at the rate of one gallon to 15 of water is 
also very effective, is more expensive, but is much more 
pleasant to apply. 
THE GREENHOUSES. 
Among the many things that demand attention at 
this time under glass is the pricking off of the seed- 
lings that were sown last month. The best way of 
handling these is to transplant them into flats where 
they can be planted two or three inches apart, accord- 
ing to the variety. Such kinds as do not relish having 
their roots disturbed too much may be handled in 
pots, and thus save many losses. 
As the work of transplanting proceeds, more room 
will be needed in the greenhouse, in fact, temporarily 
overcrowding is bound to occur. 
Shelves will need to be erected near the glass to 
accommodate the stock, and advantage may be taken 
of the many forms of fittings that are made by green- 
house builders to extend from post to post, and from 
other parts of the house to provide temporary shelves. 
EASTER LILIES. 
Lilies are much appreciated around Easter time, and 
those who have a batch under way should turn some 
attention to them during the next week or two. It 
usually takes about six weeks from the time the first 
buds show for the flower to mature, therefore one 
ought to have as many buds showing around March 
12 as possible to have them come in without undue 
forcing. Of course, by the use of more heat they can 
be flowered in much less time ; thousands are forced 
into bloom in less time every year, but far the best 
results are obtained by giving the plants plenty of 
time. When only a few plants are wanted at one 
time make a practice of putting a few each week or 
ten days into heat — a rose-house temperature suits 
lilies very well, but those that do not show their buds 
soon enough should be placed in a temperature of 
from 65 to 70 degrees at night. 
There are few plants when being forced that appre- 
ciate syringing more than does a lily, yet on the other 
hand, none are so sensitive to an over-supply of water 
at the roots. On bright days syringing may be done 
two or three times. Liquid manure may be given 
with beneficial results until the buds are turning from 
green to white, when it should be discontinued. 
CALANTHES. 
These are very desirable flowering plants when well- 
grown, and as keepers when matured the flowers are 
hard to beat. If not already done the bulbs should be 
started into growth at once. Prepare flats with a 
layer of crocks over the bottom and over these a layer 
of spaghnum moss ; then fill with sharp sand. The 
bulbs are then placed close together on this mixture 
and placed in a temperature 65 to 79 degrees at night. 
As soon as they have made root and top growth, they 
can be potted, one bulb to a five-inch pot, or three to a 
seven or eight-inch pan. The largest of the bulbs may 
need a six-inch pot to themselves. The pans or pots 
require to be filled at least one-third full of crocks. A 
growing medium made up of fibrous loam and dry, 
thoroughly decayed cow manure in equal parts, with 
just a little peat and sand will grow them well. Pot 
firmly but not too deeply (the bulbs should be able to 
stand upright when potted), but they should not be 
potted any deeper than is necessary for this. In early 
growing season they require a moist house where a 
temperature of 65 degrees is maintained. 
As they complete their growth, they will stand a 
cooler house to finish up the flower spikes. Calanthes 
are subject to thrips, and should be carefully gone 
over from time to time and sponged with a good insec- 
ticide to keep them clean. 
MISCELLANEOUS. 
Bulbs intended for Easter should be kept as cool 
as possible to retard growth, for the holiday is late 
this year, and instead of having to do so much forcing 
one will have to hold them back. 
Cannas should be started into growth either in the 
sand or in moss in flats over the heating pipes. 
Chrysanthemums may be propagated. Put the stock 
plants up to the light so they can develop into sturdy, 
short jointed stock. 
Houses containing ferns, foliage plants and orchids 
need shading as the sun gains power. 
TROPAEOLUM TRICOLORUM. 
This is a very desirable and undoubtedly the pret- 
tiest of the tuberous rooted Tropaeolums that we have 
at the present time. It takes its name, no doubt, from 
the fact that its blossoms are colored orange, red and 
purple. The tubers may be planted in the greenhouse 
bench, a light, fibrous soil suiting them best. A frame 
or trellis should be provided for the delicate stem 
which cannot support itself. The showy flowers are 
produced in surprising abundance. 
TOMATOES UNDER GLASS. 
'"POMATOES may be planted over a long season 
under glass. For a spring crop, the seed can 
be sown now, while for a summer crop, to precede the 
outdoor one, the sowing may be done as late as 
March. Suitable winter varieties are Comet. Lister's 
Prolific. Carter's Sunrise and Best of All. For later 
work, Comet, Chalk's Early Jewel and Bonny Best are 
good. If you prefer tomatoes of larger size, try Living- 
ston's Stone. For winter and spring crops the smaller- 
fruited sorts are preferable. 
A night temperature as near 60 degrees as possible 
should be given tomatoes. They must also have a dry 
atmosphere at all times. It is best to grow the plants to 
single stems, rubbing off all side growths or laterals as 
they appear. For a late spring or summer crop, the 
plants can go in rows eighteen to twenty inches apart, 
allowing the same space between the plants. Paths 
twenty-four to thirty inches wide should be left at inter- 
vals. The plants can be supported by cane stakes, but a 
better plan is to attach a piece of soft brown twine to 
each stem, fastening this to overhead wires running 
directly over the rows. As a rule it is best to pinch the 
plants after they have made five or six bunches of fruit. 
The weight of fruit per plant depends on the season and 
also on the kind of culture the plants get. It will vary 
from six to ten pounds per plant, sometimes more. 
In winter the plants fruit best in a restricted root area, 
but after April they succeed better in solid beds and in 
ground that is well enriched. At this latter season, espe- 
cially, they also need watering with liquid manure. A 
cold, drafty and clammy atmosphere will develop mil- 
dew. It will not appear if you keep your house warm and 
dry. You cannot expect to make a complete success of 
tomato growing the first season. Do your best and try 
a train. — Reviezv. 
