66 
THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE OF AMERICA. 
HOTBEDS FOR EARLY VEGETABLES. 
'"PO raise first-class early vegetable plants hotbeds are 
a necessity, and it is also well to have cold frames 
for later sowing's and also for hardening off plants 
grown in pots. The best season to prepare a hotbed 
is the fall or early winter, before the ground freezes 
hard, though, of course, it can be taken in hand at 
any time. It must be ready, however, for your earliest 
spring sowings. 
The be^t position for hotbeds and frames is one 
with a southern or southeastern exposure; whenever 
possible they should have protection from north and 
west winds and, at the same time, sin mid be near an 
outhouse or shed where sowing in flats and potting 
may be carried on during bad weather. The water 
supply should also be convenient, as much water will 
be required when the days lengthen and the sunlight 
becomes strong during late March and April. 
The hotbed frame may be made of concrete, brick 
or wood, and the depth of the pit will depend upon 
the location. In sections north of Philadelphia the 
soil should be taken out from two to two and a half 
feet ; in warmer latitudes the depth may be less. The 
pit is rilled with the heating material — fresh horse 
manure, leaver and straw, well mixed — toward the end 
of February. 
Do not attempt to grow more plants than you have 
accommodation for, or than can be properly cared 
for from the seedling stage until hardened off ready 
for setting out in the open. It must be kept in mind 
that when seedlings are ready for "pricking out" or 
transplanting the operation must be carried through 
without delay, for at this stage the seedlings will 
quickly become thin and weak unless they are well 
thinned. Therefore, it is policy to make successional 
sowings rather than to do all of it at one operation. 
The soil for the reception of the seed should be 
fairly light, but should contain sufficient nourishment 
to give the seedlings a good start. The following is 
an excellent mixture: Eight parts rich garden soil, 
two parts leaf mold, two parts sharp sand, and one 
part old, thoroughly rotted manure. After being 
passed through a small-meshed sieve and thorougnly 
mixed, spread this compost to the depth of four inches 
over the manure. 
The sowing dates recommended are for the vicinity 
of Philadelphia; for other sections subtract or add a 
week, approximately, for each 100 miles south or 
north. 
Do not sow until the heat has fallen to ninety de- 
grees. After sowing, firm the soil thoroughly with 
a board to put the seed into close contact with the 
soil. This should never be omitted, as it is essential 
to insure a perfect stand. 
When seedlings are first transplanted they must be 
immediately watered, using a watering can with a 
line nozzle and shaded for a few days from bright 
sun. On all favorable occasions give a little ventila- 
tion, raising the sash from the sheltered side of the 
frame, so that no sharp winds may strike directly on 
the tender seedlings. To maintain the temperature 
at night cover the glass with heavy sacks, burlaps or 
straw, removing the cover as soon as the sun strikes 
the frame in the morning. 
As the days become longer anil warmer and the 
plants are growing freely and strongly, remove the 
sash entirely on all tine days, but replace an hour or 
so before the sun goes down, that heat may be gen- 
erated in the frame to counteract any danger of night 
frosts. 
Cabbage. — Sowings of the first and second early 
varieties should be made the first week in March. 
Sow thinly in shallow drills three inches apart, cover- 
ing not more than a quarter to half an inch. When 
the seedlings have their first pair of true leaves trans- 
plant into rich light soil in a cold frame or a reserve 
portion of the hotbed. To make good stocky plants 
they should be set three inches apart each way. The 
first sowings should be ready for planting out about 
the middle of April. 
Cauliflower. — As cauliflower will not head during 
the heat of summer do not sow until late May or 
Early June. Give the same treatment as cabbage, and 
use such sorts as Early Snowball and Dwarf Erfurt. 
Tomato. — The first sowing should be made early in 
March, and the directions are the same as for cabbage. 
As there is always a demand for extra strong tomato 
plants this should be provided for by growing part of 
the crop in pots. Paper pots are now offered very 
cheaply and are just the things for this purpose. Do 
not pot directly from the seed bed, but use the trans- 
planted seedlings, picking sturdy plants about four 
inches in height. The best early scarlet-fruited 
varieties are Spark's Earliana and Chalk's Early Jewel. 
June Pink, if pink-fruited sorts are desired, is also 
good. For the late or main crop Matchless and Stone 
— reds — and Globe — pink — are unsurpassed. Ponder- 
osa — pink — is the largest variety in cultivation and is 
much esteemed by many amateurs.^ 
Pepper. — These plants require rather more care 
than the preceding and are much slower in growth. 
Since they need more warmth a division should be 
made in the hotbeds with boards, as the peppers will 
not require so much air until late in the spring. This 
portion of the frame could also be utilized for egg- 
plants and some of the flowering plants. The night 
temperature should not go below sixty degrees. 
Celery. — Sow in fine, rich soil in cold frames or 
in a sheltered bed in the open from the middle to the 
end of April or early May. The rows should be three 
inches apart and the seed covered not more than a 
quarter inch with fine soil. Transplant into beds or 
cold frames as soon as large enough to handle, setting 
the seedlings three inches apart each way. The finest 
varieties are Golden Self-Blanching and Giant Pascal. 
— Geo. 17". Kerr in Country Life. 
MULCHING. 
DEFORE vou can intelligently accomplish work of any 
kind, we must understand the purpose for which it 
is done. 
The general impression in regard to mulching is that 
it keeps the plants warm. This is misleading. When 
the ground will freeze solid one and one-half or two 
feet deep under the mulching, as it often does in severe 
weather, it is evident there is not overwhelming warmth 
in the mulch. In fact, a mulch of leaves or stable manure 
of sufficient bulk to produce heat by fermentation, as in a 
hot-bed, would be harmful to most plants. 
Mulching serves three purposes : First, it prevents 
drying out of the roots and the lower portion of the 
plants it comes in contact with. During dry. frosty, 
windy weather, plants are very liable to suffer. We can- 
not give them water, as it would only freeze, but mulch- 
ing prevents the drying out. Second, it helps to main- 
tain an equable temperature at the roots of a plant, and 
prevents alternate freezing and thawing. Every one has 
noticed how the ground will thaw in bright weather in 
sunny positions, while it will remain frozen where the 
sun does not strike it. 
