THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE OF AMERICA. 
67 
Without going into the science of it, this alternate 
freezing and thawing will lift shallow-rooted plants, and 
those that are not properly established, right out of the 
ground with disastrous results. 
A mulch put around such plants will prevent the thaw- 
ings, so that when the ground once freezes it stays so 
until the frost leaves the ground in the spring. 
A covering of snow acts in the same manner, and ex- 
plains why some plants come through severe winters in 
the northern latitudes unharmed, while they suffer in 
milder climates. 
The third value is a manurial rather than a protective 
one and depends rather on the kind of mulch used. 
Half-decayed stable manure is the most commonly 
used. It contains much plant food which washes down 
to the roots. 
In many cases it can be forked into the ground in the 
spring, and will be beneficial because it adds humus to 
the soil even though the plant foods have all leached out. 
To sum up the requirements for proper mulching : Do 
not put it on too early; after the ground begins to freeze 
is best. Use mulch four to eight inches deep ; light ma- 
terial, such as straw or leaves, may be used more lib- 
erally than heavier stuff. 
Aim to cover the ground around the trees or smaller 
plants as far as the roots radiate. The distance will be 
known with newly planted stock. With established 
stick as far as the branches or tops reach, is a good rule. 
When mulching the flower borders, do not cover those 
plants that have succulent or tender and evergreen tops 
too deeply, or it will hold too much moisture around 
them and they will decay, especially if it be a mild winter. 
Such plants as pinks, sweet williams, hardy candytuft, 
stone-crops, gaillardias larkspurs, pansies and young 
seedlings of all kinds just enough covering to keep off 
the sun and wind is sufficient. — from National Nursery- 
man. 
HERBACEOUS PHLOXES. 
■pWERYIK )DY who has grown the Phlox with any de- 
gree of success knows its insatiable appetite for moist- 
ure and rich food supplies. Hence it is that, in a season of 
continuous drought and great heat combined, the plants 
flag half their time when left to themselves, and at flower- 
ing time yield only small or poorly-colored flowers and 
panicles. ( hi the other hand, in a wet season the Phlox 
is seen at its best. Happily for those who grow Phloxes 
largely, no one or two storms, however violent at the 
moment, could possibly ruin a season's display. A soli- 
tary flower panicle may contain a couple of hundred 
blossoms, and fresh blooms continue to expand daily for 
weeks on end. 
To the gardener desirous of doing full justice to these 
plants the extremes of weather, to which attention is 
directed, should contain much of teaching value. Liquid 
manure, too, is of enormous service to them and is not 
easily overdone. In all probability the development of 
the plant, both as concerns its stature and the giant pro- 
portions of its flower-panicles, would, given this treat- 
ment on a liberal scale, surprise even those who think 
they realize its likes in this direction. In other respects, 
viz.. generous soil treatment, they repay for doing well. 
A fact, insufficiently recognized perhaps, is the great 
mat of roots formed by healthy examples, roots ever at 
work, and in large degree close to the surface, which 
at once explains their ready response to feeding with 
liquid manure and early suffering in times of drought if 
neglected. 
In no sense is the herbaceous Phlox fastidious, vet I 
have not the least hesitation in saving that it does best 
in loams of moderate lightness, given the attention al- 
ready indicated. In all light loams the roots ramify 
freely and healthily, and it is a good sign. In close, 
sticky and heavy clay soils they do not do so, and the 
result is seen in every growth and flower-truss. 
While the Phlox, being a perpetual-rooting subject, 
may be planted over a very considerable period, I con- 
sider early autumn — say September — the best time for 
planting divided stock, and April and May for planting 
the freshly-rooted cuttings of early spring. Cuttings 
rooted in a dung-frame I have frequently transferred 
direct to the beds, with the best results. In dealing with 
older border plants single pieces will be found of most 
service to the planter. Phloxes should never be planted 
in clumps intact. Youthful single stems from the out- 
side of the clump are much better, and three or more 
From Sutton's. 
FLOWERS OF THE HERBACEOUS PHLOX. 
of these soon make a goodly clump. In planting, their 
surface-rooting character should be remembered, and 
the stems buried 2 inches deeper than before. This 
ensures the production of a maximum number of new 
root-fibres. 
A question is often asked as to how long Phloxes may 
remain in one position without appreciable deteriora- 
tion, but it can only be answered in a general way. With 
the best treatment, which would include a certain amount 
of thinning, they may be excellent to the fourth year, 
though some sorts may continue twice as long and 
still produce moderately good trusses of flowers. Much. 
however, depends upon the variety — all Phloxes are not 
constituted alike any more than are individuals — much 
also upon soil. In these matters the plants speak for 
themselves, and the intelligent gardener need have no 
1 letter guide. — /:. H. Jenkins in Gardening Illustrated. 
i English.) 
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