Preparation of Ground for and General Treatment 
of Hardy Herbaceous Perennials 
By H. E. Downer, Massachusetts. 
ONE of the most pleasing signs of horticultural 
progress at the present time is the increasing 
interest taken in Hardy Herbaceous Peren- 
nials, popularly known as "Old-fashioned Flowers." 
As a group of plants they have long been known in 
gardens of repute, but never were they to be found so 
generally grown as today. 
Then, too, we have more numerous and much finer 
varieties for planting than had our predecessors, many 
genera having been greatly improved by the skilled 
work of the hybridist. To those thoroughly con- 
versant with their merits and wide range of usefulness 
the present wave of popularity is not to be wondered 
at, for when once a love for these flowers has been 
kindled it is likely to create such enthusiasm as can 
only be limited by the amount of space available for 
their culture. 
Taken as a group no plants are more adaptable to 
varied conditions of soil and location. While, for the 
most part, they prefer a good deep soil and an open 
position, there are those which succeed under partially 
shaded conditions, and under the reverse conditions of 
heavy and light, moist and dry soils. Neither is their 
rightful place confined to the flower garden proper. 
Some are better placed on the rockery, others in the 
shrubbery borders and wild garden. 
While we thus have included in their number plants 
available for various positions and uses, to my mind 
they are never so effective as when planted as a mixed 
border, with the object in view of having flowers for 
the longest possible time. It is with the picture of 
such a border in mind that these lines are penned. 
The ideal setting for a border of this description is 
most frequently found on places of considerable ex- 
tent. Here, with a background of trees and shrubs 
(far enough removed so as not to interfere with the 
food supply of our plants) and the border outlined in 
gracefully flowing lines in the green sward, a pleasing 
picture of ever changing beauty and interest can be 
fashioned. 
Or again, there comes to mind fine borders of peren- 
nials planted on either side of the main walk through 
the vegetable garden, with the added attraction of a 
rustic fence in the background which supported Climb- 
ing Roses and various other vines equally desirable. 
For the front of such a border an edging of suitable 
stone irregularly disposed might be substituted for a 
narrow strip of grass, being a saving of space and 
showing to greater advantage some of the low grow- 
ing and spreading perennials. 
Having selected the site, one if possible somewhat 
sheltered from the force of the prevailing winds, the 
next and most important step will be the preparation 
of the soil. As the foundation is to a house so is the 
preparation of the soil to the ultimate success of our 
planting. No amount of fertilizer can make up for the 
lack of deep and thorough cultivation, therefore it 
must be regarded as of primary importance. The ideal 
soil is a good depth of loam of a friable nature, but 
often we have to deal with soils of a less kindly nature 
and requiring varying treatment to bring into good 
order. If not naturally well drained this must receive 
first attention, as a water logged soil will prove fatal 
to many perennials. Four-inch land tile connected to 
231 
a main drain usually provides sufficient drainage in 
such cases. 
If it is a piece of pasture land to be broken up, I 
should prefer to double dig in the autumn to a depth 
of at least two feet, and plant the following spring. 
When digging in this fashion a good wide trench is 
necessary to make a thorough job. Break up the sec- 
ond spit well, but leave it at the bottom. Skim off the 
sod and place this, together with a good dressing of 
well rotted manure, between the two layers of soil, 
leaving the surface in as rough a condition as possible 
so that the winter weather may get in its beneficial 
work to the best advantage. As soon as the frost is 
out in the spring, fork in a dressing of fertilizer, such 
as sheep manure, bone-meal or wood ashes. 
If the soil is of a heavy retentive nature a dressing 
of iirne applied some time previous to planting will 
work wonders in physically improving the soil, and 
incidentally be of fertilizing value. 
For light sandy soils there is nothing better than 
a good dressing of cow manure and leaf mold to help 
retain moisture as well as provide food. If obtainable 
it is good practice to apply a dressing of clay to a very 
light soil. The best way to handle it is when dried 
and crushed, and its use in such a case is bound to be 
followed by good results. Once in a while one hears 
of a manure-sick soil, for which the best corrective is 
a good dressing of lime. 
When to plant is a question largely depending upon 
local conditions. Speaking generally, early autumn 
and spring are the proper planting seasons. While 
the majority will make new roots if transplanted at 
any time during the greater part of the year, there are 
some which have a fixed time for read}- successful 
transplanting. Such for instance are the Oriental 
Poppies, which move at no other season so well as in 
August, at which time new roots are rapidly formed. 
Peonies and German Iris transplant best during Sep- 
tember. Moved in the spring they are likely to take 
a whole year to recover. Then again such plants as 
Rudbeckias, Gaillardias and Asters can be moved with 
safety even at mid-summer if lifted with a good ball 
of earth and planted during a showery period. 
All things considered, if conditions are right, I al- 
ways prefer early autumn planting. The advantages of 
doing it at this season are obvious. Usually there is 
time to do the work in a more thorough manner. There 
is no pleasure in planting in a mad rush. The plants 
make sufficient root to establish themselves before 
winter sets in, consequently they start to grow in the 
spring without any check. 
In the spring the weather is apt to be more uncer- 
tain and the planting season short, as was the case last 
year. This naturally increases the pressure of work 
all round, and something is very apt to suffer, if only 
the gardener's peaceful state of mind. Then, too, we 
are very likely to suffer the combination of bright sun 
and drying wind, which renders conditions anything 
but ideal for newly planted things. 
The correct planting and arrangement of a mixed 
border calls for an intimate knowledge of the plants 
used. Their normal height, time of flowering and color 
must receive careful consideration. 
As a rule the garden owner wishes to have a contin- 
