232 
THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE OF AMERICA 
uous display of bloom from spring till the autumn 
frosts. Such a border is certainly more interesting to 
deal with than one that is just a mass of color at two 
or three intervals during the season. When planting 
so arrange the kinds that there shall be a fairly even 
distribution of flowers over the border throughout the 
season. A patchy border loses in effectiveness. A 
somewhat informal arrangement as to height is much 
more natural looking than when the plants are graded. 
The general effect from a landscape standpoint is much 
more pleasing. Likewise avoid dot planting, which is 
the effect produced by planting the different kinds 
singly at regular intervals. Rather group in threes or 
fives, so that while there is a general scheme of plant- 
ing it is not so obtrusive. 
Routine work after the plants start into growth 
must be regularly attended to. It is not sufficient to 
plant and then leave Dame Nature in sole charge. The 
need for deep and thorough preparation at the out- 
set will be readily apparent when we consider that 
the majority of the plants will remain undisturbed for 
at least three or four years, if not longer. During this 
period anything more than surface cultivation is inad- 
visable. A light forking in the spring is all that can 
be done in the way of digging, but during the season 
keep the surface stirred as well as possible. Staking 
and tying are details which must be attended to in 
good time for those plants which need support. Green 
painted stakes only should be used, and so disposed 
that the natural habit of the plant is not marred in any 
way. It is not necessary that the stakes should equal 
the ultimate height of the plant, and above all things 
avoid that abomination, a single stake and a tie around 
the middle. Watering is a detail we would all like to 
avoid. However, there are times and places when it 
is necessary, and when this is the case the job should 
be well done. One good watering is worth a dozen 
sprinklings and takes less time. 
Deep cultivation and surface stirring is the best 
counteraction of drought. 
The prompt removal of old flower stems and decay- 
ing foliage will prolong the flowering season of several 
kinds and give that air of tidiness which at once de- 
notes the presence of a good gardener. 
Winter protection is a detail which can easily be 
overdone to the detriment of the plants. Here, again, 
deep cultivation tends to make plants hardier by en- 
abling them to become more deeply rooted and conse- 
quently more vigorous. It is not unknown that plants 
have been killed by kindness in the form of too much 
covering and applied too early. No protection is really 
necessary until the ground is frozen. The plants can 
endure a good deal of actual cold, providing they have 
comparatively "dry feet." If only the ground would 
remain steadily frozen all the winter little or no dam- 
age would be dime. It is the alternate spells of thaw- 
ing and freezing which do the mischief. The covering 
should be of a light nature, such as long stable manure 
or dry leaves loosely disposed. For any which have 
more or less persistent foliage hemlock boughs afford 
good protection from the brightness of the winter sun. 
Mice may be sometimes troublesome under the cover- 
ing, but there are ways of catching them. Remove the 
covering in the spring as early as is consistent with 
safety, at the same time making firm any plants that 
may have become loosened by the action of the frost. 
The propagation of herbaceous plants in general is 
comparatively simple, and is effected by seed, division 
of the root-stock, cuttings of the growing stem and 
of roots. Whichevef way is favored the material for 
propagating should be selected from the best types 
only, and from plants free from disease. 
Seed may be sown at any time from spring to mid- 
summer with the assurance of getting good results. 
The chief difference resulting from early and late sow- 
ing is the method of handling the plants over the first 
winter. If space under glass is available during Feb- 
ruary and March I prefer to sow at that time, so as 
to have plants to put out into nursery rows for the 
summer, and which will winter safely outside with 
ordinary protection. From this early sowing we shall 
also get some kinds that flower the same season. Plants 
raised from seeds sown in midsummer need the pro- 
tection of a cold frame for the first winter in this 
locality. 
For ordinary quantity I find four-inch pots a con- 
venient size to sow in, and a greenhouse temperature 
of about 55 degrees. When the seedlings are large 
enough to handle the}' should be transplanted into 
flats and afforded a light, airy position in the green- 
house for a time. As soon as established they can be 
transferred to a cold frame, and when ready planted 
out into nursery rows. 
There are a few kinds which germinate slowly and 
irregularly, so that if no plants appear within a month 
it is not necessarily a failure. 
The summer sowing may be made directly into a 
frame or even a bed in the open air. For the latter 
select a sheltered spot and prepare a bed of loam, leaf- 
mold and sand in equal proportions. Give careful at- 
tentoin to watering and shading, and afterward trans- 
plant directly into frames or small pots and winter 
that way. When they have become frozen in the 
frames give a light covering of absolutely dry leaves, 
and they will come safely through weather as low as 
20 degrees below zero. Watch out for any favorable 
opportunity to give a little ventilation through the 
winter. 
Many kinds lend themselves to a ready means of 
propagation by division of the root-stock, which oper- 
ation is best carried out in autumn or spring. German 
Iris, Michaelmas Daisies and Phlox are good examples 
of plants quickly propagated by division, and which 
derive benefit by being divided about every third year. 
Others, such as Peonies, Dictamnus and Columbines 
seem to resent frequent disturbance or division, and 
are often slow in making recovery. 
It is worth while to take a little care in dividing the 
clumps. Let the fingers and a knife be used rather than 
the spade, once the clumps have been lifted. For re- 
planting select the young, vigorous pieces from out- 
side the clump, discarding the exhausted central 
portions. 
Arabis, Alyssum and Dianthus are good examples 
of plants amenable to ready propagation from cut- 
tings, which is usually done soon after flowering. Quite 
a number of kinds can be propagated in this manner 
any time young, growing shoots are available. Some, 
such as Delphinium, need to be taken with a heel to 
root successfully, but those with solid stems root if 
cut to a joint. 
The sand bench in the propagating house is a good 
place for the cuttings to root in, or they may be in- 
serted in pots and kept in a close frame until rooted. 
Japanese Anemone, Anchusa, Oriental Poppy, Gail- 
lardia and Phlox are examples of plants that may be 
increased by root cuttings. The stoutest roots should 
be selected and cut into lengths from one to two 
inches. Insert in rows in boxes of sandy soil and keep 
in a cool greenhouse until top growth appears. It is 
