THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE OF AMERICA. 
403 
There are reliable tree surgeons and many who are 
not. The owner should investigate before employing out- 
siders to repair his trees. If is is desirable to employ an 
expert to do the work, the owner should investigate his 
standing before employing him. 
Co-ordination of effort is necessary in any community, 
large or small, to obtain the greatest beauty and benefit 
from shade trees. In this way it is possible to secure 
uniformity in the use of species, proper pruning, and 
efficient control of insect and fungus invasions. A num- 
ber of States have laws governing the planting of street 
and roadside trees. If there is no Shade Tree Commis- 
sion or City Forester systematically developing the tree 
welfare of your community, interest yourself in forming 
a local forestry improvement association. If such an or- 
ganization exists, do all you can to make this work suc- 
cessful by fully co-operating with it. — From American 
Forestry. 
HINTS ON TRANSPLANTING. 
npHK most unorthodox things (according to the 
books on gardening ) have been done in my gar- 
den with the most extraordinarily successful results, 
but the one point I would impress on all amateur gar- 
deners and experimenters in gardening processes, writes 
F. P. Smart in Canadian Florist, is the imperative need 
of carefulness in planting and transplanting. The finest 
roots or bulbs carelessly or hurriedly planted will never 
give the best results. With care and some knowledge 
of the requirements and nature of roots one can trans- 
plant successfully at any time during the growing sea- 
son. Even rose hushes, carefully lifted and transplanted 
after flowering, may be made to thrive in an astonishing 
way — but only as the result of care. In the case of roses, 
this is seldom advisable or necessary, but I mention it as 
an example of what can be done and what has been done 
when the need arose. 
Mv invariable method of transplanting roots, whether 
of annuals or perennials, is first of all to have the ground 
well dug and mellow. I then make in the soft earth a 
hole deep enough to allow the tips of the roots to be 
placed in their natural position. This is next partly 
filled with earth and watered liberally, even lavishly. 
When the water is mute absorbed I fill up with earth 
abo\e the level of the ground and press the earth firmly 
down around the stern of the plant with the trowel or 
hand. This latter is of great importance. In the case 
of large roots, tramping with the foot is the best method. 
This makes the plant firm and upright and prevents the 
air penetrating the earth and drying up the tender roots 
before they have got established. No watering on the 
surface is needed for a week or more, perhaps never. 
Peonies have been transplanted in this way from one 
part of my garden to another, and have flowered pro- 
fusely the following spring, much to my surprise, as they 
are among that class of plants which deeply resent being- 
disturbed. As to bulbs, lilies and other kinds, a long- 
experience has shown that after the period of bloom is 
over and while the plant is in. a decadent state, and later 
on in its dormant condition, nothing must be allowed to 
grow over the ground or even to shade it from the sun- 
light, else the bulbs deteriorate and the blossoms of the 
next vear will be inferior, both in size and number, and 
if such conditions continue, the bulbs eventually die. 
This is often the reason why amateur gardeners fail with 
lilies- of various kinds. While speaking of bulbs, em- 
phasis must be- laid on the importance of deeper planting 
than usually prevails. Bulbs have a tendency to come 
towards the surface of the ground, consequently deep 
planting is necessary. 
The autumn season is par excellence the time of all 
others for the transplanting of perennials and the smaller 
shrubs and vines, but the mistake of delaying the work 
of transplanting till so late in the season that growth, 
even underground, has practically ceased, is the cause of 
a good deal of trouble and disappointment. As early as 
possible in September is the best time to plant, as growth 
is still going on with great vigor, both above and below 
ground. 
While spring planting of roses is certainly most fa- 
vored, I have found that bushes transplanted in late 
August or early September do excellently the following 
year ; but in doing this, as in all else connected with the 
work of planting, I would reiterate and emphasize what 
1 have said before: Carefulness, great carefulness, in 
planting is the road to successful gardening. 
TO THE GROWERS OF ROSES. 
HPHIS is to inform you that members of the Amer- 
ican Rose Society have been raising money to 
co-operate in employing a trained plant pathologist 
to investigate diseases of roses. Sufficient money has 
now been obtained to assure this work, which is 
already under way. Doctor L. M. Massey, of the New : 
York State College of Agriculture, Cornell University, 
Ithaca, is conducting the investigations. It is hoped 
that all growers of roses will now take advantage of 
this arrangement, not only to obtain what little infor- 
mation there is already at hand, but to co-operate in 
ways which will be suggested from time to time. 
Through co-operation with Doctor Massey, the grow- 
ers will greatly increase the efficiency of the investi- 
gation and obtain the greatest returns from their in- 
vestment. 
First of all it seems desirable to make a rose disease 
survey such as will acquaint us with the various dis- 
eases, together with their range and the extent of in- 
jury caused by them in this country. In order that 
this survey may reach its maximum efficiency, it will 
be necessary for the growers to co-operate by sending 
specimens of diseased plants. Franked tags will be 
supplied on request. It is hoped that each grower 
will interest himself in this work sufficiently to collect 
and send diseased material together with a brief state-, 
ment regarding varieties affected, nature and extent 
of injury, time of appearance of the disease, and other 
points of interest which may have been noticed. Ac- 
knowledgment of receipt of material will be made, and 
such information as is available in the line of control 
will be given. Many growers will be visited, but it is 
hardly necessary to say that it will be impossible to 
visit all 
The material sent should be freshly collected and 
should show various stages in the development of the 
disease. Where roots are sent it will usually be un- 
desirable to enclose any soil. Where convenient, spec- 
imens should be mailed so as to reach Ithaca the latter 
part of the week. Doctor Massey may be away from 
the city during the earlv part of the week and the ma- 
terial should receive immediate attention upon its 
arrival. 
Place leaves, buds, etc., between the leaves of an 
old newspaper, a few between each two sheets. Then 
roll into a tight bundle, wrap in stout paper. Tie well, 
attach one of the franked tags on which you have writ-, 
ten your name, address, and mail. It will go postage 
free. 
H. H. Whetzel, 
Head of the Department of Plant Pathology, 
New York State College of Agriculture. 
