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THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE OF AMERICA 
POT CULTURE OF CANTERBURY BELLS. 
By John S. Doig, Massachusetts 
FOR Conservatory and Greenhouse Decoration during 
the latter part of April and throughout the months 
of May and June, Canterbury Bells are hard to 
beat. Seeds should be sown the first or second week of 
March, using shallow pans that contain a good light open 
compost. Before sowing the seed see that the pans are 
thoroughly watered. After sowing cover the seed lightly 
and press down medium firm with a smooth-surfaced 
board, then cover the pans with a sheet of glass and a 
sheet of paper to exclude the light, and place them in 
a temperature of 55° to 60°. 
As soon as the seedlings appear remove the covering 
and place the pans on a shelf as near to the roof-glass as 
possible, shading from strong sunshine. When they re- 
quire water never attempt to give it to them overhead, as 
that will mean failure, but obtain a saucer that is four 
inches in depth and fill with water in accordance to size 
of seed pan and set the seed pan into it and let the water 
soak up through from the bottom, but at the same time 
Canterbury Bells in Piits. 
don't let the pan or pans soak for an hour or two, but 
remove them from the saucer as soon as the surface of 
the soil gets moist-looking. When the second rough leaf 
shows, the seedlings are read}- for transferring into other 
receptacles. I find that boxes" 3 inches in depth, 18 inches 
wide and 30 inches long are very suitable when filled with 
a fairly rich compost. When pricking off allow 3 inches 
between plants each way. Keep them growing along in 
a nice moist, steady temperature of 55°-60°. By the first 
week of May move them out of the greenhouse to a hot- 
bed frame in which the heat is nearly all gone, admitting 
air on all favorable weather conditions. The second week 
of June is the most suitable time for placing the plants in 
their summer quarters, the ground being previously well 
manured and spaded over. Afford them lots of room 
when planting out ; 18 inches from plant to plant in the 
rows and two and a half feet between the rows. Keep 
the ground well cultivated and free of weeds during the 
summer months. By the 12th or 15th of October lift the 
plants, selecting the medium-sized and well-shaped, and 
pot into 10-inch pots. After potting water well and place 
them in a cold frame, letting them stay there until the 
first week of December, protecting only from severe 
frosts, as a slight freezing will do them good, if thawed 
out thoroughly before letting the sun's rays reach them. 
A cool, airy house is the best place to winter the plants in. 
A peach house will answer the purpose Al. 
They require careful watering throughout the winter 
months, keeping them rather on the dry side. When they 
start into active growth the latter part of February af- 
ford them a weekly application of liquid manure water 
until they reach a height of 12 inches, then give them the 
liquid manure water twice weekly until the flower buds 
are half developed, at which stage feeding should be dis- 
continued. 
Stake and tie up the shoots, as they require it. If 
desired, a few plants may be wintered in the nursery 
beds and lifted and potted in May, which will give satis- 
factory results if they have been properly protected dur- 
ing winter with good strawy stable litter, free of decayed 
manure. The accompanying photo of Canterburys was 
taken the latter part of May, 1916. They were lifted 
and potted into 10-inch pots on October 14, 1915. They 
measured from 4 to 5 ft. in height and 2y 2 to 3 ft. 
through. 
HARDINESS OF ENGLISH LAUREL 
DY English Laurel we mean the common evergreen 
known in that country as the Bay or common 
Laurel, and botanically as Cerasus Laurocerasus. To 
find it in modern lists one has to look under Primus 
Laurocerasus. 
The large, handsome, green leaves make is so valuable 
that the shrub is planted in states south of Pennsylvania 
to some extent, and the well doing of it about the 
Capitol Building at Washington gave evidence to many 
of its being more hardy than was then supposed. It is 
unmindful of freezings even as far north as Philadelphia, 
where it has passed safely through many Winters, but 
always when it has had protection in some way from the 
sun and high winds. Planted near some building where 
this protection is afforded, it will endure all the cold that 
locality experiences. We have seen small plants well 
protected by having a barrel with both ends knocked out, 
placed over it, then a little straw or forest leaves placed 
lightly over the top of the barrel. This gives the shade 
and the protection necessary. There is free access of 
air, such as the plant demands and when Winter ends 
and the barrel is taken away there is a plant with foliage 
as green as it was before it was covered. 
One can well take a hint from this how to protect all 
plants that require it. Keep the sun off, keep high winds 
off, but do not make the protection air tight. The plant 
must have air or it will die. 
There are varieties of this Laurel more hardy than 
others. English nurserymen say the variety rotundi- 
folia is one of them Then there is another, very dis- 
tinct in foliage, and far more hardy than any other, 
namely, Schipkjensis. This will endure the cold of 
Pennsylvania fairly well, but in all respects it should 
have some protection to preserve its foliage, just as 
Rhododendrons, Kalmias and evergreen Andromedas do. 
No matter if natives or not, all such broad leaved ever- 
greens demand shelter if we are to expect pleasing 
foliage in the Spring. — Florists' Exchange. 
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