464 
THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE OF AMERICA. 
normal growth will put out feeding roots at least three 
or four times the length of its longest branch. Trees 
do not get much of their food close to the trunk. They 
absorb it through the little fibrous feeders scattered all 
along the larger roots, and most numerous near the ex- 
treme tips of the roots. It is almost impossible to trace 
these little feeders to their extreme end, and it is a mis- 
take to suppose that the food for a tree should be placed 
within a foot or two of its base. In almost every orchard 
of ten years and older the feeding roots of the trees 
cover practically every inch of soil between the trees, 
and manure or other tree food should be scattered over 
the surface as evenly as you would place it on a meadow. 
Probablv the greatest mistake commonly made in feed- 
ing trees is to continue the feeding too late in the season. 
In one respect most trees are like children, they continue 
to feed when food is within their reach, regardless of 
consequences. A tree needs time to digest its food. This 
we commonly call "maturing the wood." If the tree is 
still feeding and making new and succulent growth 
when freezing weather comes, the wood will not be solid 
and dry enough to withstand the low temperature of a 
cold Winter, and we have the injury commonly known 
as winter-killing of the twigs and branches. 
Therefore the necessity for knowledge and judgment 
in feeding a tree is the same as in feeding an animal. 
The only difference is that the results of bad feeding or 
starvation are not so quickly discernible in the case of 
the tree, and when these results do become apparent, 
most of us fail to attribute them to the right cause. In 
fact we often believe that there is no cause at all, or 
that it is something occult and mysterious. 
It is generally conceded that fertilization and cultiva- 
tion of fruit trees should not continue later than the 
first of August, and in the more northern sections, where 
Winters are severe and the growing season short, it is 
best to stop about the middle of July. Manure may be 
applied to the surface of the soil all through the Winter, 
if desired, and it can be worked into the ground all 
through the Spring and early Summer, when moisture 
conditions are suitable. Rut to take away a crop of 
fruit each year and give the tree nothing in return is 
unnatural, and failure is the sure result. 
The man who makes the greatest success with trees 
is the one who studies them closest, learns their likes 
and dislikes, their needs and enemies. He finally comes 
to realize that they have many characteristics closely 
resembling the animal creation, and that they are in 
some respects just as susceptible to the effects of care 
and neglect. — The Fruit Grower. 
HINTS ON TRANSPLANTING. 
"THE most unorthodox things (according to the books 
on gardening) have been done in my garden with 
the most extraordinarily successful results, but the one 
point I would impress on all gardeners and experiment- 
ers in gardening processes, writes E. P. Smart in Cana- 
dian florist, is the imperative need of carefulness in 
planting and transplanting. The finest roots or bulbs 
carelessly or hurriedly planted will never give the best 
results. With care and some knowledge of the require- 
ments and nature of roots, one can transplant success- 
fully at any time during' the growing season. Even 
rose bushes carefully lifted and transplanted after 
flowering, may be made to thrive in an astonishing way 
— but only as the result of care. In the case of roses 
this is seldom advisable or necessary, but I mention it 
as an example of what can be done and what has been 
done when the need arose. 
My invariable method of transplanting roots, whether 
of annuals or perennials, is, first of all, to have the ground 
well dug and mellow. I then make in the soft earth a 
hole deep enough to allow the tips of the roots to be 
placed in their natural position. This is next partly filled 
with earth and watered liberally, even lavishly. When 
the water is quite absorbed I fill up with earth above 
the level of the ground and press the earth firmly down 
around the stem of the plant with a trowel or hand. 
This latter is of great importance. In the case of larger 
roots tramping with the foot is the best method. This 
makes the plant firm and upright and prevents the air 
penetrating the earth and drying up the tender roots 
before they have got established. No watering on the 
surface is needed for a week or more — perhaps never. 
As to bulbs, lilies and other kinds of bulbous plants, 
a long experience has shown that after the period of 
bloom is over and while the plant is in a decadent state, 
and later on in its dormant condition, nothing must be 
allowed to grow over the ground or even to shade it 
from the sunlight, else the bulbs deteriorate and the 
blossoms of the next year will be inferior, both in size 
and number, and if such conditions continue, the bulbs 
eventually die. This is often the reason why amateur 
gardeners fail with lilies of various kinds ; also, with the 
handsome Crown Imperials which bloom in the early 
spring and are so liable to be overgrown later on. While 
speaking of bulbs, emphasis must be laid on the im- 
portance of deeper planting than usually prevails. Bulbs 
have a tendency to come towards the surface of the 
ground, consequently deep planting is necessary. 
While Spring planting of roses is certainly most 
favored, I have found that bushes transplanted in late 
September or even November do excellently the follow- 
ing year ; but in doing this, as in all else connected with 
the work of planting, I would reiterate and emphasize 
what I have said before : Carefulness, great carefulness 
in planting is the road to successful gardening. 
WILD CUCUMBER VINE. 
'"pHE wild cucumber vine — Echinocvstis lobata — is 
one of the quickest-growing annual climbing plants 
we have. It is useful for covering unsightly outhouses, 
high fences and arbors. It is very showy when in full 
bloom, the creamy-white flowers being borne in long 
racemes. The blossoms are followed by bladder-like 
fruits two inches long, which are covered with soft 
prickly spines. The fruit or seed pods are a never-fail- 
ing source of interest to the children, who delight in 
making them burst. 
On account of the thick leathery coat, the seed is very 
slow in germinating — in fact, I have known sowings 
to remain dormant in the soil from spring until the fol- 
lowing spring, ere sprouting, writes George W. Kerr in 
Country Gentleman. Therefore, the only sure way to 
have a perfect stand of plants is to sow the seed in the 
Fall or early Winter, thus subjecting them to the in- 
fluences of the snows and rains ; then they will quickly 
germinate in early Spring. 
In sowing cover the seed with not more than one 
inch of soil, and place them six inches apart. This will 
be ample to give you a solid mass of luxuriant growth. 
The only drawback to this useful vine is that should the 
soil ever become dry the leaves quickly become yellow 
at the bottom. To guard against this, give regular and 
copious supplies of water during periods of drought. 
There is never any necessity of sowing seed the sec- 
ond year, as self-sown seedlings will appear in abund- 
ance. In spite of it-; precocious habit of self-sowing, 
there is no danger of its ever becoming a noxious weed 
as the seedlings not required are readily destroyed. 
