472 
THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE OF AMERICA. 
sisting of two parts leaf mould, one part sand, and a 
liberal dressing of small pieces of charcoal. Place a 
good drainage of crocks in a shallow seed pan, then 
a three-inch layer of the prepared compost, pressing it 
firmly into the pan. On this scatter the seeds thinly, and 
as evenly as possible — say, at intervals of two or three 
inches, in order to avoid too early transplanting. Cover 
the seeds to a depth of about half an inch with a mix- 
ture of sifted compost. The surface should then be given 
a watering with a fine stream so as not to disturb the 
soil, and the pan placed in a box of moss. Cover the 
whole with a piece of glass. Keep the moss damp as oc- 
casion demands, and turn the glass over twice a day. 
In about six weeks the seedlings will appear. As they 
begin to peep through the soil, a little more ventilation 
must be given until, as they grow, the box is left en- 
tirely open. If possible, place on a shelf near the roof 
of the greenhouse, or close to the glass in a frame. In 
the youthful stages they will require careful treatment 
to prevent damping off. Fresh air and moderate sup- 
plies of tepid water are essential to success. 
When the third or fourth leaf shows itself, the little 
plants may be potted up singly in pots, or hardened off 
and placed under protective twigs in the open. If the 
grower's ambition is the production of a new world- 
famous rose, he had better keep them in pots until he 
at least sees what the fates have bestowed upon him. 
For this purpose, the usual greenhouse treatment is all 
that is necessary for the tiny plants. When he gets his 
first blossom in the second Spring, he can decide what 
should be done. 
The first blossom these maiden roses yield is unlikely 
to be satisfactory in point of size. Color, brilliance, 
form and character, however, should be the criterions 
of merit. If the shrub promises to give satisfaction, it 
can be budded on to a wild stock, or grown in the rich 
soil of the garden, where the individual flowers will he 
found to increase in magnitude, and the other qualities 
to remain constant. If they turn out to be exact replicas 
of the parent, they can be employed to fill up blanks in 
the rose border, or to replace bushes that are old and 
worn out. 
A greenhouse with a gentle heat is no doubt more 
satisfactory in raising roses from seed. A frame is quite 
good enough, though not so easily managed. A watch 
must be kept upon the young plants for the appear- 
ance of the many enemies that attack them. The green- 
fly will appear, as if by magic, upon the tender young 
shoots. Spray with nicotine or some such substance. — 
Canadian Florist. 
PACHYSANDRA FOR SHADY PLACES 
nPHE constant inquiry of the estate owner — "What can 
I plant in those shady places where grass will not 
grow?" is satisfactorily answered by advising the use 
of Pachysandra terminalis, a beautiful evergreen plant 
growing six inches high, perfectly hardy and enduring 
dense shade and dry locations as well as flourishing in 
direct sunlight or moist positions. 
Although introduced into this country from Japan 
some years ago, its full value as a ground cover for 
shady places does not seem to have become known, pos- 
sibly owing to the difficulty of propagation and the fact 
that the unusual method of planting and preparation of 
the soil are at fault. 
The writer, after numerous experiments, finds that 
the planting of rooted cuttings directly into the perma- 
nent positions is much the best method of obtaining 
quick and lasting effects, as the plants then grow to an 
even height and quickly fill up all open spaces with their 
beautiful green foliage, particularly if the top is pinched 
out the year following the planting, causing from four 
to six new shoots to break from the crown, whereas 
with an old field grown plant the tendency is to assume 
more of a scraggy effect. 
The ground should be first dug and properly manured 
and fertilized and the rooted cuttings planted about six 
inches apart, given a good watering and then, if possible, 
an inch deep mulch of leaf mold or humus. If this is 
done no further care is required except the suggested 
pinching the following year, although occasional fertiliza- 
tion is beneficial. 
Plantings of Pachysandra made in this way have 
proven highly successful under Ileech and other trees 
where such plants as Periwinkle and English Ivy were 
failures. Particularly beautiful effects may be obtained 
by bull) plantings made among the Pachysandra to re- 
main year after year. 
This planting of such a ground cover adds not only 
to the beauty of an estate by covering the unsightly 
bare places with a sheet of deep green in strong contrast 
to the green of the lawns and tree foliage, but is of 
extreme benefit to the trees or shrubs under which it is 
planted, as the falling leaves of the trees and shrubs may 
remain among the Pachysandra providing a very bene- 
ficial mulch for both. 
Pachysandra is also a very suitable border for walks 
and flower beds, as it is of a low even growth at all 
times and may be easily kept within bounds. — Exchange. 
w 
WATERING RHODODENDRON BEDS. 
E have often referred to the importance of protect- 
ing Rhododendrons and all broad-leaved ever- 
greens from the sun and high winds in winter, but at 
this time we wish to make special mention of the neces- 
sity of seeing that there is abundance of moisture at the 
roots. It is from lack of this that much of the loss of 
plants in winter occurs. At the present time, where the 
writer lives, the ground could not be in worse condition 
should winter set in early ; it is so very dry. Evergreens 
of all kinds need moisture at the root as much in winter 
as in summer ; their foliage demands it all the time. 
Without it the plant dies or is greatly injured. Unthink- 
ingly it is put down to "the winter," while the fact is 
that just the same thing would have happened in the 
summer, the plant or plants having died from lack of 
water. But few persons realize this, so applying water 
is never thought of in winter. 
The present is the time to see that beds of shallow 
rooting plants of all kind, evergreen or deciduous, are 
well supplied with water. Do not cease watering be- 
cause summer is over, but soak the ground around them 
thoroughly at once, not waiting until the leaves com- 
mence to show the dryness. Turn the hose on Rhodo- 
dendron and other beds whenever the soil is dry, and at 
once before freezings come, so that the plants can pro- 
cure all the moisture they require at once. Then later, 
when winter is about at hand, place a mulch over the 
ground to prevent the escape of moisture. 
Evergreens of all sorts particularly need this attention, 
the shallow rooting ones the most. Lack of moisture 
below ground is more often responsible for the death of 
evergreens in winter than anything above it is. The 
writer has known of large deciduous forest trees on a 
hillside to be killed in winter when winter set in on them 
witli the soil very dry. Keep in mind that plants must 
have water in winter as well as in summer. — Exchange. 
