March.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. 225 
trees; as for instance, shoots of about two feet may be cut to ten, 
twelve, or fifteen inches, or a little longer in strong growths; for 
the strongest shoots should always be left the longest; and those 
about twelve to fifteen or eighteen inches pruned to six, eight, ten, 
or twelve inches in length; and so in proportion to the different 
lengths and degrees of strength, and particular situation of the 
respective shoots. See January, &c. 
By this practice each of these shoots will probably produce two, 
three, or four new shoots the succeeding summer, so that by Octo- 
ber each young tree, so treated, will be furnished with from twelve 
or fifteen to eighteen or twenty shoots, or more. 
The trees may then be pruned according to the method directed 
for the older trees of that sort, observing still to shorten the young 
shoots, but in such a manner as they may both produce fruit and 
a supply of young wood, as in the full bearing trees aforesaid; that 
is, generally to prune the weaker shoots about one-half, the stronger 
ones prune about a third or fourth of their length, according to 
strength and where situated, and the situation of the blossom and 
wood-buds on the respective shoots; then nail them straight and 
close to the walls, or tie them to the espalier with willow twigs, &c. 
three or four to five or six inches asunder. — See Fruit Garden in 
January^ &c. 
Pruning and training young Apple, Pear, Plum and Cherry Trees 
for Espaliers and Walls. 
Any young dwarf apples, pears, plums, and cherry trees, lately 
planted against walls or espaliers, &c. or still remaining in the 
nursery with their first shoots, of only a year or two old entire, 
should now be pruned down to a few eyes that they may put out 
some good shoots near the ground, to furnish the bottom of the 
wall or espalier therewith. 
If the heads of these trees are but one year's growth from the 
bud or graft, let them be shortened to four or five eyes; observing 
to do it just as they begin to form buds for shooting. 
Suppose they are two years from the bud or graft, and the first 
shoots were cut down, as above, last spring; let the shoots which 
were produced from them the last summer be also shortened now 
to six, eight, or ten inches. 
The same rule holds good with these at first training as men- 
tioned for the apricots and peaches; for it is on shortening properly 
the first and second year's shoots, from the budding and grafting, 
that the whole success depends for forming a useful and handsome 
tree: as when a young wall or espalier tree is well furnished with 
branches near the ground, these will readily supply you with more, 
in their turn, to furnish the wall or espalier upwards. 
But in the common course of pruning apples, pears, plums, and 
cherries, their shoots and branches are not to be shortened; for after 
the young trees are furnished with a proper supply of branches 
below, their shoots must then be trained to the wall at full length, 
only shortening particular shoots when more wood maybe required 
