Masch.] the nursery. 265 
Juniper and Red Cedar Hedges. 
Juniper and red cedar make good garden hedges, particularly the 
former, and are very proper for affording shelter to such quarters 
of the garden or nursery as are set apart for the raising of tender 
plants \n', both may be propagated abundantly from seeds, which 
do not vegetate till the second spring after ripening, consequently 
they must be prepared as directed for haws, and when sown, should 
not be covered more than a quarter of an inch deep; they may 
remain in the seed-bed for two years, if not too thick, and then 
planted into nursery rows; or the largest may be taken up when 
a year old, and planted therein, provided that they haVe grown 
freely. The juniper may be raised by cuttings, planted in a shady 
border towards the latter end of this month. 
Yew and Privet Hedges. 
Yew and privet make neat garden hedges; they are both raised 
from seeds and cuttings, the latter planted in March, and the seeds 
of each are to be treated as directed for haws, not vegetating the 
first spring after ripening. 
Pyracantha or Evergreen-Thorn Hedges. 
The Mespilis Pyracantha, or evergreen-thorn, will' make a tole- 
rably good hedge; it is propagated by seed, which will not vegetate 
till the second spring after ripening, and must be treated accord- 
ingly. 
Rose and Sweet-Briar Hedges. 
Wild roses and sweet-briar are sometimes used for hedges, and 
may either be propagated by suckers, layers or seeds. The best 
way to cultivate them for hedges is by seed, which must be gathered 
in autumn when ripe, and preserved as directed for haws, till the 
spring following twelve months, and then sown. 
Elder, Willow, and Jllder Hedges. 
The elder tree is sometimes used for hedges, especially when a 
fence is wanted as soon as possible, being of a more speedy growth 
than any other kind commonly used for that purpose, though not 
the most effectual nor beautiful. However, an immediate fence 
may be made of it, by planting large truncheons or cuttings of the 
straightest upright shoots and branches from two or three, to six 
feet long, planted either upright, a foot asunder, and wattled along 
the top to preserve them firm and even; or by planting them 
slanting across one another, chequerwise, forming a sort of lattice 
work, which is the most effectual method. In either way of plant- 
ing, do not point and drive them in, as is commonly done, but make 
holes for their reception, twelve or fifteen inches deep, with a crow- 
bar, then insert their ends, and make the earth fast about them: 
2K ' 
