4 94 THE VINEYARD. [Sept. 
wine; after which it is to be treated as before directed, observing 
to take similar pains in pressing the juice out of the pulp when, 
sufficiently fermented, as recommended under the article White 
Wines, but this will not be so diflicult. 
The antiquity of the practice of boiling the must maybe inferred 
from the following story related by Mutardi-Ben-Gasif, an Ara- 
bian author: 
"Noah being come out of the ark, he commanded each of his 
sons to build a house; they afterwards busied themselves in sowing 
and planting trees, for which they had found kernels and necessary 
fruits in the ark. Noah wanted the vine only, nor could he ever 
find it. Gabriel then gave him notice that it was the Devil who 
had stolen it away, because he had a right to it. Noah made him 
come forward immediately, and said to him: Oh! thou acctirsed! 
wherefore hast thou carried the vine away from me? Because it 
doth belong to me, quoth Satan. Share it betwixt you, replies 
Gabriel. I agree to that, continued Noah, and I'll let him have 
the one-fourth. That will not be sufl&cient for him, replied Gabriel. 
Well! I am willing, said Noah, to take one half, and he may have 
the other. That is not still enough, said Gabriel; he must have 
two-thirds of it, and thou only one, and thy must shall be boiled 
on the fire until it has consumed up the two-thirds, the use of the 
remainder shall be granted unto thee." 
What a pity! that Mutardi-Ben-Gasif did not inform us of the 
progress made by his Satanic majesty in the cultivation of the vine, 
to whom Gabriel's favours had been extended so very bountifully, 
even not to the injunction of boiling his m,ust. 
General Remarks. 
Ideal, as well as intrinsic qualities, cause one kind of wine to be 
preferred to another, so that one nation or country admires what 
another does not like, or perhaps despises; and even this ideal 
fancy is not uncommon among individuals of the same country, 
town, or place; consequently, it will be well to know how to vary 
the properties of wine according to fancy. 
If a taste of wine slightly acid, similar to that of the Rhenish, is 
desired, some tartarous acid may be added to the must. 
If the wine is required sweet, the must should be drained in such 
a manner that it may retain as little as possible of the lees, and let 
it afterwards ferment of itself. Some sugared matter might be 
joined with it. 
If the wine should be wanted delicate and of a light colour, the 
m.ust should not be suffered to have a long action on the lees, from 
which it takes principles that augment the fermentation, and dis- 
solve in consequence the mucilaginous parts, together with the 
colouring matter. 
Should a strong wine of good body be preferred, the must ought 
to be suffered to remain the longer on the dregs, in case the grapes 
do not afford it of sufficient strength. Or the boiling of the must, 
in the manner before observed, will accomplish this. 
