514 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Oct. 
certain destruction to them, yet its influence will prevent that 
intense frost so prevalent in colder aspects; and when the plants 
at such times are screened from the direct rays of the sun, its 
reflected heat comforts without injuring them. 
The beds should be made the width of your garden-frames, and 
the plants set therein up to their leaves in rows about three or four 
inches distant every way. When thus transplanted they will sur- 
vive the winter much better than in the seed-beds, for their long 
stems being buried into the earth, are protected thereby from alter- 
nate freezing and thawing and the effects of the various changes 
of weather, than which there is nothing more injurious to tender 
plants. The stems of these and cauliflower plants, are injured be- 
fore the foliage, and it is of importance to keep those tender parts 
in an equal temperature, by which they will be preserved much 
longer even if in a frozen state than if they were exposed to alter- 
nate frost and heat. 
Select good plants from the seed-beds and, when planted, give 
them a gentle watering to settle the earth about their roots, observ- 
ing not to apply it too hastily lest you wash the earth into their 
hearts. 
Put on the frames immediately, and also the lights, but the 
glasses are now to be continued on only four or five days till the 
plants have taken fresh root; observing during that period to shade 
the plants with mats or other protection from the mid-day sun; but 
when they have taken sufficient root the lights are to be taken 
totally oft" and the plants left fully exposed till the setting in of 
smart frosts, except in very cold nights or during the prevalence of 
cold heavy rains; for it is of considerable moment to have the plants 
tolerably hardy on the commencement of severe weather. 
But if they happen to be in a backward state you should keep on 
the glasses every night to encourage their growth. 
When you have not the convenience of glass, you may defend 
the plants sufficiently in winter by means of boards and mats. 
Or, in the middle and southern states, you may plant some in a 
warm border to be defended in like manner as before directed for ■ 
lettuces; and if the winter proves tolerably mild, they may happen 
to stand it pretty well. But if at any time, particularly towards 
the end of February or early in March, you expose the plants to a 
warm sun, while they or the earth in which they stand are in a 
frozen state, it will inevitably destroy them. 
You should in mild warm weather, when the sun is not powerful, 
give them an occasional airing, and the oftener this can be done, 
so that they are covered up again in due time, the better. 
Similar precautions are to be used with plants in frames that are 
frozen, but such as are not, will be improved by exposing them oc- 
casionally to as much air and sun as prudence may warrant till 
planted out finally in March, &c. 
By pursuing this method you will have much earlier and larger 
cabbages than can be expected from plants sown in the early spring 
months. 
