32 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Jan. 
able to the same rules in shoots of different growths; pruning some 
to about eight, ten, or twelve inches, others to fifteen or eighteen 
inches long, or more, according to their strength and situation in 
different parts of the tree, as well as, in some cases, the apparent 
situation of the blossom-buds, in being placed higher or lower on 
the respective shoots selected for bearers, as before observed. 
But when any trees are of very vigorous growth in their general 
shoots, they must be shortened but moderately; or some shoots 
very little; in which some of the less vigorous may be cut to about 
twelve or fifteen inches; bin in stronger shoots prune off only about 
one third or fourth of their length, or some of the most luxuriant 
left mostly at their full length: for if the strong shoots of a general- 
ly vigorous tree were to be much shortened, it would occasion 
their shooting still more luxuriantly to rampant unfruitlul wood; 
therefore the vigorous shoots should be very moderately shortened; 
and where they are general in a tree, it is adviseable both to leave 
them closer and of much greater length than the shoots in mode- 
rate growing trees, that the exuberance of sap may be expended in 
the larger extent and expansion of wood, and the tree thereby in 
time become a more moderate shooter and a good bearer. 
Observe, however, in shortening the shoots in general, both in 
trees of moderate, middling, and strong growth, that in those shoots 
adapted for principal bearers the ensuing season, should be careful 
not to cut away too low, or below all or most of the blossom-buds, 
or parts where they are expected to advance, being generally dis- 
tinguishable from the leaf or shoot-buds by their round, plump, 
swelling appearance, the others being oblong, narrow, and flattish; 
and therefore should give proper attention to shorten accordingly 
in the shoots where the fruit-buds are apparent. 
Likewise observe, that in shortening the bearing shoots or others 
of those trees, they should generally, where practicable, be cut to 
an eye or wood-but that is likely to produce a shoot for a leader 
the ensuing season; the shoot-bud-eyes being distinguishable 
from the fruit or blossom-buds, by their longer, flattish form, the 
others being roundish, swelling, and turgid; or may also, occasion- 
ally, prune to an eye having one or two blossom-buds, as frequently, 
from the same eye, shoot-buds are also formed on one side of the 
single or between the two twin blossom buds aforesaid, and from 
which a good leading shoot will be most likely produced, which is 
necessary to the welfare of the fruit: for where a leading shoot is 
produced at or near the extremity of a bearing branch, it draws nou- 
rishment to the fruit more effectually. 
After having pruned one tree, let it be directly nailed or bound 
as you go on; observing to lay in the branches and shoots horizon- 
tally, perfectly straight, and parallel to each other at the above 
mentioned distances, nailing them all close to the wall, or tying 
them to the trellis in a neat manner. 
Prune Gooseberry and Currant Trees. 
Gooseberries and currants bear both on the young one or two 
years' wood, and upon the several years' branches, generally upon 
