Jan.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. 81 
that number, that I may be the better able in this small compass, 
to explain and convey some idea of the method practised in pruning 
these sorts of trees. 
At the same time, observe, in the above general pruning, to re- 
tain the most promising well-placed shoots, of the best middling, 
or moderately strong growth, and which appear the most fruitful, 
or likely to furnish a proper supply of blossom-buds; rejecting 
very weakly slender shoots, and such as are very long-jointed, like- 
wise uncommonly thick spongy growths, as also remarkably rank 
luxuriants, cutting them all clean out; likewise the foreright and 
others ill placed, that could not be trained with proper regularity. 
And, as yon proceed, cut out some considerable part of the past 
bearers of the last, or two or three preceding years, to make room 
for the above young supply; pruning them down to some eligible 
lateral shoo's, or some occasionally to their origin, as it may seem 
expedient: also take out casual old naked branches, advanced of 
some considerable length, without being now furnished with lateral 
young bearers, or fruitful shoots, eligibly placed for training where 
wanted; pruning them either entirely out to make room for the 
more fruitful wood, or pruned down, more or less, to any more 
prolific well-placed young branch proceeding therefrom, and that is 
furnished with young shoots for bearing. 
Next let it be remembered, that as you proceed in pruning these 
trees, most of those young shoots that are left to bear, must be 
shortened, especially the smaller and middling, and those of mode- 
rate growth, both to strengthen them in their future production, 
and to promote their producing more certainly a sufi/ ly of succes- 
aional lateral shoots next summer, properly situated, so as to conti- 
nue every part of the tree always well furnished with bearers; for 
without this precaution of shortening the shoots, many of them are 
apt to run up, producing laterals only, mostly towards the upper 
part, leaving the bottom naked; whereby the tree in time becomes 
devoid of bearing shoots below; so that the shortening should be 
performed, more or less, according to their strength, and that of 
the tree in general. Though with standard trees of these kinds, 
shortening the shoots is not necessary, yet when trained to walls or 
espaliers, it certainly is; for the reasons above assigned. 
For instance, if a tree is weak, or but a moderate shooter, gene- 
rally leaving the shoots about five or six inches apart, for training 
in nearly at that distance, let them be shortened according to their 
strength; some of the weaker shoots to five, six, or eight inches, 
others of stronger growth, to about ten or twelve, to fifteen or eigh- 
teen inches long; for the shortening should always be performed, 
more or less, according to the different shoots, and, in some degree, 
according as the blossom-buds appear situated higher or lower on 
the respective shoots; never shorten below all the said buds, in those 
shoots designed principally for bearing. 
When a tree is in a moderate good condition, neither very vi- 
gorous nor weakly, but a middling strong shooter, the shoots may 
be left nearly about three to four or five inches asunder, and should 
be shortened rather less in proportion than the foregoing, but agree- 
